Central Couloir

This is a direct route from the South Cameron Glacier that follows the main couloir to the summit. It was the original descent route but is now the most common route to the summit. In good snow conditions the climb is straightforward, but if snow is thin at least two major rock steps may need to be negotiated, usually on the broad ledges and short walls to the right of the couloir, and this will increase the grade of the climb. Once on the summit ridge scramble around on the Lawrence side to the summit. The couloir is prone to bombardment from rock and ice debris and usually is not a late season route. A second couloir, 200 metres further north along the ridge, is also useable.