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The routes "From Lord Valley" & "NW Ridge, are sometimes combined as a pack route between the Lord Valley and the Lambert Glacier. Teichelmann used this route on the 6th Feb 1911 on his first ascent of Mt Tyndall.
It is also practical to access the upper Mad Water from the basin north of Stoddart. From the basin, sidle around and down to a shelf with two tarns at 1300m and continue along it to where it finishes, overlooking the Mad Water. The steep gully beyond, shown as a tiny creek on the map, is not practical to descend from up here. Instead, descend a steep rock and tussock rib on the true left of it with care, sidling into the gravel gully about 60m height above the Mad Water and following it down. Some looking around may be necessary but it works with care. Travel up the Mad Water at stream level from here is ok, but downstream is a waterfalled canyon. Slopes to the east above the Lord can be approached from here.
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
NWR | North West Ridge | 1+ | ||||
LV | From the Lord Valley | 1+ | ||||
SR | South Ridge | 2 |
in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club