Mt Strachan

(3 routes)

Then came a perfect day. We left at 4 a.m. for Strachan, the mecca of the expedition, going up via the Mueller Pass; then south west up the grass and shingle slopes, and thence up the Strachan Glacier. Taking in a snow peak to the south and cutting back over our steps, we finally stood on the summit of Mt Strachan (8559 feet) at 9.15 a.m. It was the one perfect day we had, and it was the finest unclimbed peak of this region, and both were matched by a peerless view. Tier upon tier the serrated ridges rose up one above the other until they culminated in the crowned head of Mount Cook. To the west the blue ocean broke in white breakers on the shore: to the south lay a lovely blue lake; while at our feet the long Landsborough Valley meandered down toward the Haast.

Marie Byles, New Zealand Alpine Journal, 1935.

Type: 
Mountain
Altitude: 
2561m
Lat/Lon: 
-43.777216330000, 169.791745990000
NZMS260: 
H37 518 095
Topo50: 
BY14 418 479
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
North Ridge 2+
0
From Mueller Pass head south west up the slopes to the Strachan Glacier and the summit.
Marie Byles, Marjorie Edgar-Jones, Harry Ayres, Frank Alack, January 1935
North West Face 2+
0
A Mahitahi Valley rather than Landsborough Valley climb. The Mahitahi face of the peak provides a climb over glacier-smoothed rock, north facing snow slopes and couloir to reach the summit ridge
Dick Tornquist, VicvMcGregor, Alex Parton, John Luxton, Tim Barfoot, George Hunter, January 1961
South Ridge 2+
0
Climb the Strachan Glacier to reach the Elliot - Strachan Col, then straightforward travel along the ridge.
Jim McFarlane, Bill Beaven, Norman Hardie, February 1947