South East Ridge

Type: 
Alpine
Description: 
Several parties attempted to climb the mountain from the Lower Otoko Pass before it was completed in 1962. Note that early accounts describe this as the North East Ridge! A broad shelf leads across the east face until crevasses force the route up onto the summit pyramid. A large gendarme at about 2500m which deterred several parties is turned on the Clarke side to reach the east peak. A difficult pinnacled ridge leading to the summit requires down climbing on tension at a couple of points to reach the final sharp cheval ridge. Plenty of exposure! Now I had a decision problem. I hated to give up, but there seemed no way out. The way down was difficult enough and we could not afford any more mishaps. The others however did not follow up my overtures of defeat, but seemed still hopeful that we could pull something out of the box. They sent up my jersey for I was feeling cold in the shade (or was it fright), and I considered the problem some more. Through the window I could see that there was not any prospect on the Otoko side, while the only way on my side was vertically down. So that way it would have to be. Perhaps on the sloping shelves of rubble below me, we could find a way around underneath the pinnacle. Paul Bieleski, New Zealand Alpine Journal, 1962.
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
140mNo
Grade: 
4
Quality: 
0
Gone: 
0
Length: 
0m
Bolts: 
0
Natural pro: 
0
Ascent: 
Paul Bieleski, G.A.Carr, Bruce Jenkinson, A.G.Nelson, January 1962
UUID: 
836ff300-d4d5-4a0c-b03f-074d349ba131