Type:
Alpine
Description:
Several parties attempted to climb the mountain from Lower Ōtoko Pass before it was completed in 1962. Note that early accounts describe this as the North East Ridge. A broad shelf leads across the east face until crevasses force the route up onto the summit pyramid. A large gendarme at about 2500m, which deterred several parties, is turned on the Marks Flat side to reach the east peak. A difficult, pinnacled ridge leading to the summit requires down climbing on tension at a couple of points to reach the final sharp cheval ridge. Plenty of exposure!
Pitch(es):
# | Ewbank | Alpine (Technical) | Alpine (Commitment) | Alpine (Mt Cook) | Aid | Water Ice | Mixed | Boulder (Hueco) | Length | Bolts | Trad |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | 4 | V | 0m | No |
Grade:
V 4
Quality:
Gone:
0
Length:
0m
Bolts:
0
Natural pro:
0
Ascent:
Paul Bieleski, G A Carr, Bruce Jenkinson, A G Nelson, January 1962
UUID:
836ff300-d4d5-4a0c-b03f-074d349ba131