South East Ridge

Type: 
Alpine
Description: 
Several parties attempted to climb the mountain from Lower Ōtoko Pass before it was completed in 1962. Note that early accounts describe this as the North East Ridge. A broad shelf leads across the east face until crevasses force the route up onto the summit pyramid. A large gendarme at about 2500m, which deterred several parties, is turned on the Marks Flat side to reach the east peak. A difficult, pinnacled ridge leading to the summit requires down climbing on tension at a couple of points to reach the final sharp cheval ridge. Plenty of exposure!
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
14V0mNo
Grade: 
V 4
Quality: 
1.02
Gone: 
0
Length: 
0m
Bolts: 
0
Natural pro: 
0
Ascent: 
Paul Bieleski, G A Carr, Bruce Jenkinson, A G Nelson, January 1962
UUID: 
836ff300-d4d5-4a0c-b03f-074d349ba131