Mt Hooker is a superb massif flanked on three sides by extensive glaciers. An impressively steep north face dominates the view from the upper Ōtoko River. The first ascent by Samuel and Cyril Turner is shrouded in mystery, as Samuel Turner died before he was able to record the details of the ascent. However, the secretary of the Alpine Club at the time was satisfied that they had indeed climbed the peak, after corroboration from deer cullers working in the area. It is likely they climbed it from Marks Flat. Hooker is readily visible from the Haast and West Coast highways, and provides a powerful attraction for climbers who want to experience climbing west of the Main Divide.
From the west, a rapid approach can be made up the Ōtoko River to reach the junction with Jack Creek or, further on, the Upper Ōtoko Pass. Access can also be gained from the east by crossing the Landsborough River and Solution Range or from the south by traveling up the Landsborough and Clarke valleys.
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
North West Ridge | 2,II | |||||
South Ridge | 3+,III | |||||
South East Ridge | 4,V | |||||
Hersey Vinton-Boot | 20,6,V | |||||
From Jack Creek | 2,III |