Mt Hooker

Formerly provided reasonable access to the mountain, but recent windfall is reported to have created havoc in the forested section of the creek making it near impassable. Beyond the end of the stream, cross the Jack Glacier to connect with a broad ridge which leads up to the west peak of Mt Hooker. Ascent to the higher eastern peak is accomplished by traversing across the east slope and up a snow chute.

Several parties attempted to climb the mountain from the Lower Otoko Pass before it was completed in 1962. Note that early accounts describe this as the North East Ridge! A broad shelf leads across the east face until crevasses force the route up onto the summit pyramid. A large gendarme at about 2500m which deterred several parties is turned on the Clarke side to reach the east peak. A difficult pinnacled ridge leading to the summit requires down climbing on tension at a couple of points to reach the final sharp cheval ridge. Plenty of exposure! Now I had a decision problem. I hated to give up, but there seemed no way out. The way down was difficult enough and we could not afford any more mishaps. The others however did not follow up my overtures of defeat, but seemed still hopeful that we could pull something out of the box. They sent up my jersey for I was feeling cold in the shade (or was it fright), and I considered the problem some more. Through the window I could see that there was not any prospect on the Otoko side, while the only way on my side was vertically down. So that way it would have to be. Perhaps on the sloping shelves of rubble below me, we could find a way around underneath the pinnacle. Paul Bieleski, New Zealand Alpine Journal, 1962.

A route leads from the Hooker Glacier directly to the high peak. Follow mixed ground up the spur to reach loose schist and move carefully to the summit snowfield.

The southern snowslopes from Marks Flat and Murdock Creek provides rapid access to the upper slopes. Climb around the western summit at about 2450m, sidle across the north slope snowfield to an arête leading to the higher eastern peak. A lengthy one day climb requiring over 1700m of height gain.