Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Quality | Bolts | Gone | Natural pro | Link to edit content | ||
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From Jack Creek |
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Formerly provided reasonable access to the mountain, but recent windfall is
reported to have created havoc in the forested section of the creek making it
near impassable. Beyond the end of the stream, cross the Jack Glacier to
connect with a broad ridge which leads up to the west peak of Mt Hooker.
Ascent to the higher eastern peak is accomplished by traversing across the
east slope and up a snow chute.
Samuel Turner, Cyril Turner, December 1928
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South East Ridge | 4 |
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Several parties attempted to climb the mountain from the Lower Otoko Pass
before it was completed in 1962. Note that early accounts describe this as
the North East Ridge! A broad shelf leads across the east face until
crevasses force the route up onto the summit pyramid. A large gendarme at
about 2500m which deterred several parties is turned on the Clarke side to
reach the east peak. A difficult pinnacled ridge leading to the summit
requires down climbing on tension at a couple of points to reach the final
sharp cheval ridge. Plenty of exposure!
Now I had a decision problem. I hated to give up, but there seemed no way
out. The way down was difficult enough and we could not afford any more
mishaps. The others however did not follow up my overtures of defeat, but
seemed still hopeful that we could pull something out of the box. They sent
up my jersey for I was feeling cold in the shade (or was it fright), and I
considered the problem some more. Through the window I could see that there
was not any prospect on the Otoko side, while the only way on my side was
vertically down. So that way it would have to be. Perhaps on the sloping
shelves of rubble below me, we could find a way around underneath the
pinnacle.
Paul Bieleski, New Zealand Alpine Journal, 1962.
Paul Bieleski, G.A.Carr, Bruce Jenkinson, A.G.Nelson, January 1962
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South Face | 3+ |
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A route leads from the Hooker Glacier directly to the high peak. Follow mixed
ground up the spur to reach loose schist and move carefully to the summit
snowfield.
Dave Innes, Bruce Robertson, Peter Foster, Laurie Kennedy, January 1968
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From Marks Flat | 2+ |
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The southern snowslopes from Marks Flat and Murdock Creek provides rapid
access to the upper slopes. Climb around the western summit at about 2450m,
sidle across the north slope snowfield to an arête leading to the higher
eastern peak. A lengthy one day climb requiring over 1700m of height gain.
Marion Scott, Dora de Beer, Joe Fleurty, Chris Pope, April 1937
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UUID:
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