European Cove - North Wall

(12 routes)

Has some great challanges, & 30-35m routes

Walk time: 

1 use rap chais at top of The Way of the Lion.
2Access gully in from east under and over boulders

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Dt Disappointment 15 15m
wire representing trad
Corner and crack.
Andrew Taylor '86
G2 Go 2 15
wire representing trad
a deep crack.
Ronan Grew '85
Main Chance 18
3bolts wire representing trad
Start up "Greased Lightning" and then break L onto the arete. Up this with 3 bolts and a cam. Fun moves at the top.
Nick Cradock October 2010
GL Greased Lightning 17
wire representing trad
Thin cracks.
Rick Harding
Great White Shark Hunt Variant 20 32m
3bolts wire representing trad
Start as for any of Greased Lightning, Great White Shark Hunt or The Way of the Lion to DB belay(hangers only) then climb corner and wall on the R past 3 bolts to DBA. Nick Cradock
GS Great White Shark Hunt 18 32m
1bolts wire representing trad
Main corner up to the flax ledge.
Ronan Grew
The Way of the Pussycat 20
2bolts wire representing trad
Start up "Way of the Lion" then go L and over the roof clipping 2 bolts.
Murray Ball and Nick Cradock April 2011
WL The Way of the Lion 18 32m
wire representing trad 1
Up the R side of the narrow sea-facing wall, move L and up to the overhang, traversing out R above to the arete and follow the groove on the slab to the belay bolts.
Rick Harding '88
FG Flowers on Your Grave 18 32m
1bolts wire representing trad 1
Start up WOTL and follow the R leaning groove beside the arete. Step through the overhang, up and L to the groove in the slab.
Rick Harding '90
Prison Planet 23 28m
1bolts wire representing trad 1
Climb the obvious steep handcrack through the overhangs to a good rest below the bolt at the roof. Solve the slopey crux past the bolt and climb the slab above.
Rob Brinyarski
Wr Warrior 17 26m
1bolts wire representing trad 2
The central crack up to the overhang, move R to a bolt, climb the groove to the block, bolt belay
Rick Harding '89
Crack of Decay 16
wire representing trad
Corner up to the 3m roof below the chockstone.
Rick Harding '88