European Cove

(29 routes)

The first Hidden Cleft, South of the Main Wall Area.
Apart from the Tintin Boulder this area is set up for modern climbing with 9 sets of rings as well as the original rap anchors. The best access is to rap in(from either above Warrior or Fool's Gold) and walk out under the jammed boulder then up and R using a fixed rope.

The recent additions are described starting at the seaward end of the North Wall and progressing round the zawn in a clockwise direction to the seaward end of the South Wall.



Walk time: 

Approach by track from behind the top of Racing in the Streets. Push through flax to
reach the top where you can either rap in from bolts on the true L of where the track
meets the cove or walk around the inland edge of the cove and follow a track down
and under a big chockstone to the base of the climbs.

-41.904419850000, 171.430865710000
K29 798213
BS20 699 596
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Mojo Risin' 20
The crack on the S wall of the entry gully
Dennis Kelly
Patagonia 15 6m
Crack in the western corner of the EC entrance chamber
Vince Scully
Bottle Brush 10 6m
Entrance to EC, 1 side of chockstone.
Rick Harding '88


Type Title Link to edit content
Wall Tintin Boulder (5 routes)
Wall European Cove - South Wall (9 routes)
Wall European Cove - North Wall (12 routes)


The track 'around the inland edge of the cove' down to the big chockstone is pretty awful, it being heavily overgrown with gorse. Getting to the North wall from Cathedral Rock and rapping in over Warrior is fine, but easier still is to simply to turn off the main path into this area from the carpark at the first left, tottle along about 50m and then turn right and come out at the top of Fools' Gold and /or take a simple scramble back to said chockstone for a walk-in option. Setting yourself a fixed rope to exit from the chockstone would be elegant
. April '16.