The first Hidden Cleft, South of the Main Wall Area.
Apart from the Tintin Boulder this area is set up for modern climbing with 9 sets of rings as well as the original rap anchors. The best access is to rap in(from either above Warrior or Fool's Gold) and walk out under the jammed boulder then up and R using a fixed rope.
The recent additions are described starting at the seaward end of the North Wall and progressing round the zawn in a clockwise direction to the seaward end of the South Wall.
Approach by track from behind the top of Racing in the Streets. Push through flax to
reach the top where you can either rap in from bolts on the true L of where the track
meets the cove or walk around the inland edge of the cove and follow a track down
and under a big chockstone to the base of the climbs.
Places
| Type | Name | Alert |
|---|---|---|
| Sector | Tintin Boulder | |
| Sector | European Cove - South Wall | |
| Sector | European Cove - North Wall |
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mojo Risin', 20 | 20 |  |
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The crack on the S wall of the entry gully
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| Patagonia, 15 | 15 | 6m | |
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Crack in the western corner of the EC entrance chamber
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| Bottle Brush, 10 | 10 | 6m | |
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Entrance to EC, 1 side of chockstone.
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The track 'around the inland edge of the cove' down to the big chockstone is pretty awful, it being heavily overgrown with gorse. Getting to the North wall from Cathedral Rock and rapping in over Warrior is fine, but easier still is to simply to turn off the main path into this area from the carpark at the first left, tottle along about 50m and then turn right and come out at the top of Fools' Gold and /or take a simple scramble back to said chockstone for a walk-in option. Setting yourself a fixed rope to exit from the chockstone would be elegant
. April '16.