Shimmering Jelly Wall

Left of Nocuous, climbing the overhanging brown wall, easier above the lone bolt After.

The overhanging arete. Follow the arete, placing gear to the left before moving right onto the face to the first bolt (shared with Thin Hedgehog), then up left edge of the face. Double bolt anchor.

A steep, fingery wall, with some good climbing. Start up the right side of the wall against the RA crack; then move leftward to the first bolt (shared with Nocuous). Double bolt anchor slightly to the right. Originally climbed direct to the first bolt, but it’s harder than 19. Both this route and Nocuous used to have only one bolt and hence were seldom climbed – now with decent protection they’re both good routes.

Follows the shallow crack. Good protection and nice moves.

Originally a trad route by Alan Hill, with little or no pro, now sporting 4 bolts the wall

Start between the cracks two metres left of FP and then slightly right for some (not great) protection. Finish straight up.

This route, a metre right, goes past a flake in the middle of the wall, then up, exiting though corner left of steeper section of wall. Scramble to Ring bolt anchor left of Shimmering Jelly rings. Good protection, but rather loose.

Just right. From ledge,follow cracks and edges rightward to finish at SJ anchor. Good Gear.

The wall with two bolts (good #1 rock placement to protect the moves to the 1st). Great fingery moves, though the route wanders a bit following the holds. Tend left above the top bolt (anchors well back),

Start as for Shimmering Jelly (clipping its first bolt) then break right and straight up over the bulge past two more bolts.

A steep crack from a ledge. Double fixed ring anchor on vegetated ledge. Good Gear.

The fingery wall with great moves. Start either slightly L or directly below arete. Avoid L arete

Just left of a corner/chimney (Crag rat) topped by shrubbery. Start at the ledge and step left; then up the left side of the arete past a bolt(removed). Belay on the ledge to double fixed ring bolts. Better to spend your energy on 70 Cents Worth.

Work your way up the awkward corner (good cams) and swing right to clip Rogue Rat's second bolt. Continue more easily to the ring bolt anchors.

Clip the first bolt from the security of the ledge if you are tall enough, make a few hard moves rightwards avoiding penduluming back into the corner, then grovel left to the second (strangely located) bolt. Then up easily to double ring bolt anchor.

The left side of a rounded arete. Best anchor is two old bolts over the top or else traverse left to RR's ring anchors.

The slightly overhanging corner. Place gear in the righthand crack before climbing thru the bulge, then easier climbing to the top.

From left edge of wall at a gully. Up corner a short way and as soon as possible hand traverse right onto a slopey ledge. Place large cam in rabbit hole and then continue up centre of wall next to yellow lichen. A good route with good but interesting pro from wires and CDs.

Straight up at the left edge of the roof. The overhang on small holds leads to easier climbing up a wall, over a bulge and finishes up a juggy wall.

Climb the left side of the roof using a large block; then balance up to the right of the hebe and on up through a groove. Good pro if you trust the block not to move. (The block is gone so see what you think...)

Rightwards thru the cave to the lip, after which it gets much easier.

Ingredients: One bouldering mat, one long quickdraw, a couple of small cams (.5 & .75 or small wires) and a cunning belayer. Method: It is recommended to abseil into the climb and place quickdraws first as it is quite strenuous clipping. Place a long quickdraw in the second bolt to help prevent rope drag. The climb is very crumbly in places but all the essential holds are solid. The Climb: Begin right of the first bolt. Boulder up a crumbly looking section to a ledge for your hands and begin traversing left to the bolt. Reach high to clip and keep traversing left around the corner using crimpy holds and multiple heel hooks. Aim for the small gap in the roof above the second bolt. Once through the roof the climb becomes much easier but is loose in places. Place a cam or a wire in the break at about half hight. Note: The belayer has the option to anchor themselves to the large boulder. Also, be prepared for a big swing if you fall while clipping the second bolt. A very satisfying climb.

At the right edge of the cave pull through the overhang on big holds. Then straight up the wall above. Good pro - two ropes are useful. CD and sling anchor.

Start just left of the plaque and move left across a slab to the V corner and up. Minimal pro.