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Cattlestop Crag

Part of

The original guide was revised by Lindsay Main, incorporating much rebolting and additions.
The crag is sheltered from the easterly and comprises lots of short sport routes, mixed with some trad climbs. There are a few easy sport routes to get started on.


The first climbs were by Lindsay Main in 1974. Despite a few additions in 1980, the crag didn’t catch on. Richard Thomson and Peter Sykes added a few harder routes towards the end of the decade, notably Dead Possum and Shimmering Jelly. Neil Sloan filled in some of the gaps in 1992, picking up some good routes such as Solar Powered and Nuggets in the process. Later, Lindsay Main and Stu Allan searched out a few remaining routes that are unlikely to become classics, except for the steep Surgical Strike. Recently the crag has seen quite a bit of rebolting to bring the routes up to modern standards, with the re-development of some of the low-grade areas to suit instruction courses. At the same time, some of the older routes that were either seriously run-out, ill-equipped, or required single natural pro runners amidst bolts have been retro-bolted to become pure sport climbs, in keeping with Britten Crag.
Climbs are described from left to right.

5 min
POINT (172.72126031 -43.58491078)
BX24 775 742

The crag is in the Christchurch City Council's Scotts Valley Reserve, with no restrictions on climbing.

There is space for two or three cars to park right by the eponymous cattlestop on the Summit Road. Walk straight down the gully, with Merlin Wall directly to the right, and Shimmering Jelly Wall further across to the left.

A larger parking area is across the road further west at an old quarry (with Pop-up Crag behind and to the right). BE AWARE - this carpark has had a number of cars broken into over the years - please don't leave valuables in your car for the dishonest few to take ). From here cross the road and find the track leading down below Shimmering Jelly Wall.

If both these parking areas are full, drive 200 metres south and park on the saddle (as for Lyttelton Rock).

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Cattlestop Crag cimbing guide added, please download and use, please do not upload to climbing websites or data bases

Mon, 20/05/2019 - 17:33 Permalink

'A Dull Thump' on the Merlin Wall, has had two new bolts and hangers installed today as a result of previous damage on the third bolt and a loose second bolt.

Mon, 01/01/2018 - 20:41 Permalink
Simon Courtois

Satanic Verses has been re-bolted. Now has 5 or 6 bolts. Care should be taken clipping last bolt as the block you clip from moves. A new route has been added left of S.V. "Hotter than Hades" 19-21?? depending on the direct start. There is a stick at the base for stick clipping 1st bolt, or step in from the right. 5 bolts and 2 bolt anchor. Finish as for "Quick and Dirty"

Fri, 23/11/2012 - 18:52 Permalink
Cattlestop Rev B.pdf
This place appears in
By Lindsay Main, Guidebook produced and added by Tony Burnell