Bivvy Rock

(19 routes)

Set in a lovely spot looking down Lyttleton Harbour. The crag gets lots of sun , is sheltered from the southerly but if the Nor West is cranking not so sheltered !
My favourite is "Let Me Sleep on it". I am biased. Dave's route is GOOD
The routes are approximately 18-20m long, and are equiped with rap stations.

Walk time: 
5 mins.

Drive south from Sign of the Kiwi for 3 km. Cliff is on the left, which is clearly visible from a dirt car park also on the left (harbour side). From the car park, don’t follow the ‘Bivvy Track’ - insteas, head up the Crater Rim track (north towards Sign of the Bellbird) for two mins to a junction. Here the track is obvious and sidles over to the crag. You’ll come to a new area of easy grade 12 ish beginner sport routes (not online yet?). Walk a bit further to the main area. Although you may find a sign that says 'Track Closed', all the remedial work on the crag itself( removing loose rocks etc ), as well as on the track leading to the crag was done in 2013. When driving, if you get to the top of of the Kennedy’s Bush track where there is a car park on a corner, you’ve driven about 200 m too far.

-43.625657000000, 172.627081000000
M36 799 312
BX24 699 696
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
SE Scorched Earth 18 20m
On the left end of the crags. Belay anchor that has a hand rope to assist getting to the start of the climb. Climb the wall directly above the belay anchor past 5 staples, then it kicks back to off vertical to to rap station.
Grant Piper 2017
BH Black Humour 19 20m
7bolts 1
Go rightwards and on to a small ramp from the belay anchor, climb the vertical past 5 staples to the topp of the arete on the left. Finish rightwards up the off vertical to the rap station.
Grant Piper 2017
RU Round Up 19 25m
Clip belayer into the first staple, move rightwards around the corner then up onto the steepening slab, (crux), when the angle eases off cruise to the rap station.
Grant Piper 2017
G0 Ground Zero 19 22m
Venture up the featured slab to the overlap. Climb up into the corner/ bulge, then onwards to rap station.
Grant Piper 2017
Pt Pyro-technic 21 20m
Starts under the overhang, with a low first staple, bouldery start up and head leftwards, with biggish moves on good holds. Once over onto the head wall, follow line straight up to the devious ending and the same anchor as DR.
Warrick Matheson 2017
DR Duncan’s route 18 20m
7bolts 1
Left angling line of bolts, with good climbing cranking through chickenheads at the bottom, then cruise through the mid section to enjoy the crux near the top. 2 bolt anchor
Duncan Sherratt, 6 April 2012.
SD Sleep When You're Dead 19 20m
Start in the shallow cave and move left to the first bolt. Shimmy left and up to under the bulge. Mantle over the bulge and up the head wall to a v-groove finish. Anchor shared with DD & LS.
Owain Scullion & Tom Stubbs 2016
DD Dirty Dream 18 20m
6bolts 2
The route left of the arête (next route) with chain link hangers, and 10mm hangars.
Simon Courtois 2012
LS Let Me Sleep On It 19 20m
Bolted line up arete (from 2007) (some link hangers at the bottom) 2 bolt anchor. Extra bolts added
Simon Courtois 2007
PT Pillar Talk 17
5bolts 1
Use same bolts as previous route but climb up onto the shattered pillar right of bolts, and then move left to join previous route. Half of pillar fell off in 2011
CG Cold Ground 20
(‘was my bed last night, and rock was my pillow too)’ 20? Bolted line right of previous route. 4-5 bolts with S.S. hangers. Separate 2 bolt anchor. Dave did the first ascent on his birthday. A bit run-out, move left to feature on face then up between 3-4th bolts.. Hardest route to date (may need another bolt)
Dave Shotwell 2008
Sleeping Beauty 22
Share first bolt with CG then move right. Move up pumpy bulge and delicately move up the arête to double bolt anchor.
Owain Scullion & Tom Stubbs 2017
We Ain’t Playing Tiddly-winks Mate 22
6bolts 4
Pre-named before being climbed in 2012. A proud line, after a grubby start, with an improbable traverse and devious climbing at the top.
Howie McGee, 2012
RB Ruperts Blanket 16 15m
The Siesta Wall- There are a lot of bolts. Many variations possible.
Wendy & Simon Courtois 2007
FF Faux Fur 13 15m
Instead of traversing left on previous route at 4/5 bolt go up thru to anchors above grassy ledge. There is a different set of chains (right of “R. B”).
U Unamed 17 15m
Same start as FF. Move right under a prominent rock instead of following FF after the 3rd bolt. Proposed name: "I dreamt of this Mt Olympus girl."
Ia Insomnia 17 15m
Go up and right of “R.B.” Line of bolts up black streak. Steepens at top, lots of bolts.
Brokeback Mountain 19 15m
Go 2/3rds the way up Insomnia, move right then scum up a groove, grab the saddle horn and ride… move up and right on friction finish.
AS Awake to a shake 17 15m
From the start of “R.B.” move right and up following 4-5 bolts climbing over a steep step near the top. 2 bolt anchor.
File attachments: 
Simon Courtois and Tony Burnell


Bivvy Crag and The Air Traffic Control Tower cimbing guide added, please download and use, please do not upload to climbing websites or data bases