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Bivvy Rock

Type
Crag
Altitude
420m
Part of
Port Hills

OPEN !
Current update - as of 9/9/24 , after discussion between the NZAC C/W Section and The Summit Road Society, Bivvy Rock is open to climbers again.
Thanks to the Summit Road Society and also to Simon Courtois for his communication with them as well.
Set in a lovely spot looking down Lyttelton Harbour. The crag gets lots of sun , is sheltered from the southerly but if the Nor West is cranking, not so sheltered !
My favourite is "Let Me Sleep on it". I am biased. Dave's route is GOOD
The routes are approximately 18-20m long, and are equiped with rap stations.

External links
Port Hills Climbing Guide
The Crag
Walktime
5 to 10 mins
Aspect
East
Lat/lon
-43.625657,172.627081, NZ Topo Map
Topo50
BX24 699 696
Approach

Drive South from Sign of the Kiwi for 3 km. Cliff is on the left, which is clearly visible from a dirt car park also on the left (harbour side). From the car park, don’t follow the ‘Bivvy Track’ - instead, head up the Crater Rim track (north towards Sign of the Bellbird) for two mins to a junction. Here the track is obvious and sidles over to the crag. You’ll come to a new area of easy grade 12 ish beginner sport routes (not online yet?). Walk a bit further to the main area. Although you may find a sign that says 'Track Closed', all the remedial work on the crag itself( removing loose rocks etc ), as well as on the track leading to the crag was done in 2013. When driving, if you get to the top of of the Kennedy’s Bush track where there is a car park on a corner, you’ve driven about 200 m too far.

Add Place Add Route

Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
SE SEScorched Earth, 18 18 20m 7
0
  • P1
  • 18
  • 20m
  • 7

On the left end of the crags. Belay anchor that has a hand rope to assist getting to the start of the climb. Climb the wall directly above the belay anchor past 5 staples, then it kicks back to off vertical to to rap station.
BH BHBlack Humour, 19 19 20m 7
0
  • P1
  • 19
  • 20m
  • 7

Go rightwards and on to a small ramp from the belay anchor, climb the vertical past 5 staples to the topp of the arete on the left. Finish rightwards up the off vertical to the rap station.
RU RURound Up, 19 19 25m 8
0
  • P1
  • 19
  • 25m
  • 8

Clip belayer into the first staple, move rightwards around the corner then up onto the steepening slab, (crux), when the angle eases off cruise to the rap station.
G0 G0Ground Zero, 19 19 22m 7
0
  • P1
  • 19
  • 22m
  • 7

Venture up the featured slab to the overlap. Climb up into the corner/ bulge, then onwards to rap station.
Pt PtPyro-technic, 21 21 20m 9
0
  • P1
  • 21
  • 20m
  • 9

Starts under the overhang, with a low first staple, bouldery start up and head leftwards, with biggish moves on good holds. Once over onto the head wall, follow line straight up to the devious ending and the same anchor as DR.
DR DRDuncan’s route, 18 18 20m 7
0
  • P1
  • 18
  • 20m
  • 7

Left angling line of bolts, with good climbing cranking through chickenheads at the bottom, then cruise through the mid section to enjoy the crux near the top. 2 bolt anchor

SD SDSleep When You're Dead, 19 19 20m 5
0
  • P1
  • 19
  • 20m
  • 5

Start in the shallow cave and move left to the first bolt. Shimmy left and up to under the bulge. Mantle over the bulge and up the head wall to a v-groove finish. Anchor shared with DD & LS.
DD DDDirty Dream, 18 18 20m 6
0
  • P1
  • 18
  • 20m
  • 6

The route left of the arête (next route) with chain link hangers, and 10mm hangars.
LS LSLet Me Sleep On It, 19 19 20m 7
3
  • P1
  • 19
  • 20m
  • 7

Bolted line up arete (from 2007) (some link hangers at the bottom) 2 bolt anchor. Extra bolts added

PT PTPillar Talk, 17 17 5
0
  • P1
  • 17
  • 5

Use same bolts as previous route but climb up onto the shattered pillar right of bolts, and then move left to join previous route. Half of pillar fell off in 2011
CG CGCold Ground, 20 20 0m 5
0
  • P1
  • 20
  • 5

(‘was my bed last night, and rock was my pillow too)’ 20? Bolted line right of previous route. 4-5 bolts with S.S. hangers. Separate 2 bolt anchor. Dave did the first ascent on his birthday. A bit run-out, move left to feature on face then up between 3-4th bolts.(may need another bolt)

 Sleeping Beauty, 22 22 6
2.01
  • P1
  • 22
  • 6

Share first bolt with CG then move right. Move up pumpy bulge and delicately move up the arête to double bolt anchor.
 We Ain’t Playing Tiddly-winks Mate, 22 22 6
0
  • P1
  • 22
  • 6

Pre-named before being climbed in 2012. A proud line, after a grubby start, with an improbable traverse and devious climbing at the top.
RB RBRuperts Blanket, 16 16 15m 7
0

The Siesta Wall- There are a lot of bolts. Many variations possible.

  • P1
  • 16
  • 15m
  • 7

A line of bolts up a water streak. Good climbing. At 4th bolt move left and clip bolt out right on Faux Fur (with plenty of extension) to protect crux, then move up to a 2 bolt anchor up and left of water streak, tricky finish

FF FFFaux Fur, 13 13 15m 7
0
  • P1
  • 13
  • 15m
  • 7

Instead of traversing left on previous route at 4/5 bolt go up thru to anchors above grassy ledge. There is a different set of chains (right of “R. B”).
Ia IaInsomnia, 17 17 15m 7
0
  • P1
  • 17
  • 15m
  • 7

Go up and right of “R.B.” Line of bolts up black streak. Steepens at top, lots of bolts.

U UUnamed, 17 17 15m 7
0
  • P1
  • 17
  • 15m
  • 7

Same start as FF. Move right under a prominent rock instead of following FF after the 3rd bolt. Proposed name: "I dreamt of this Mt Olympus girl."

 Brokeback Mountain, 19 19 15m 7
0
  • P1
  • 19
  • 15m
  • 7

Go 2/3rds the way up Insomnia, move right then scum up a groove, grab the saddle horn and ride… move up and right on friction finish.

AS ASAwake to a shake, 17 17 15m 7
0
  • P1
  • 17
  • 15m
  • 7

From the start of “R.B.” move right and up following 4-5 bolts climbing over a steep step near the top. 2 bolt anchor.

 Annihilation Mix, 24 24 20m 9
2.01
  • P1
  • 24
  • 20m
  • 9

Bouldery start, pull over the lip and easily to the top
 Slip of the Tongue, 26 26 20m
0

Fight up the crumbly rock to cool moves over the mantle and easily up to the anchors

  • P1
  • 26
  • 20m
 XX, 21 21 20m 8
0
  • P1
  • 21
  • 20m
  • 8
 4X, 26 26 18m 6
1.02

Shares a start with XX - after the third bolt head left into the black groove to the roof.

  • P1
  • 26
  • 18m
  • 6
 Pressure Gauge, 25 25 22m 7
1.02
  • P1
  • 25
  • 22m
  • 7

Start right of Ground Zero (first bolt is a staple). Follow hangers up ledges to a scoop and get through the crux. Shares an anchor with Ground Zero
 Ground Zero, 19 19 22m 7
1.02
  • P1
  • 19
  • 22m
  • 7
 Pocket Symphony, 23 23 22m 8
1.02

Shares the first 3 bolts with Ground Zero and then heads left, into the blankness

  • P1
  • 23
  • 22m
  • 8
 Compression Test 20m 9
1.02

Mostly easy, with an interesting boulder problem

  • P1
  • 20m
  • 9
Comments
climber53

Bivvy Crag and The Air Traffic Control Tower cimbing guide added, please download and use, please do not upload to climbing websites or data bases

Mon, 20/05/2019 - 17:19 Permalink
Files
Attribution
Simon Courtois and Tony Burnell
UUID
 
296eb206-4586-4bbc-a213-716957c0dfc4