Los Indignados Wall

Reference

Title

Grade

Length

Quality

Bolts

Gone

Natural pro

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Gout Route

On the wide buttress between Scapegoat and MK. Start is just as you descend to the Los Indignados area, up slabby area above and left of bottom of MK gully. Good rock belay in alcove to the right of climb. Top pitch is avoidable by going right up obvious gully (probably M2) or left on easy snow to meet ridge, making it a good first mixed lead with similar climbing to MK or Saturday Morning Special. Pitch 1 - Slabby start leads to broken gully and then up long snow slope, heading right at top to good rock belay in alcove. M2/M3, 60m Pitch 2 - Step left from belay into fun corner with excellent gear and a couple of steeper steps. At top of gully, break left on slabby ground and onto wide easy angled snow above. First ascensionist belayed off a boulder in middle of snow field using a piton. May be easier to shorten this pitch and belay at bottom of snowfield. M3, 55m Pitch 3 - From belay, cross easy snowfield (on first ascent, party moved together here but could be pitched) and aim for obvious steep crack on ridge. Good rock belay on right of slab. Step left from belay up slab and then through off-width which become a crack at the top. Good gear and hooks all the way but thin feet make it quite pumpy. A piton got left next to crux on first ascent which you may be glad to clip, otherwise a big cam would come in handy. Fun pitch. Good spike belay on ridge. M4+, 20m (+40m of easy snow at start)

Matt Wilkinson,

150m

P1, Climb the obvious iced up gut. It can be difficult to find a belay at the end of the first 60m pitch, especially in big snow years. A snow stake may prove useful; a pink Tricam too. Otherwise it may be desirable for the second to simul-climb the first, easy snow slopes so the second can reach a large block at the top of the first icefall (large cams). P2-3, The initial, narrow, often iced up choke of the climb (P1-2) is where the main challenges lie, but the upper section can be climbed several different ways to make it easier or more challenging. From the first broad snowfield above the choke, the original route moves left up a short-mixed step to gain another broad snowfield. The original rout continues up this snowfield, but above this step, on the left wall there are two mixed lines that continue to the top at around M4. Alternatively: From the top of the initial ice gully one can deviate to the right to a great belay below a large chockstone roof feature. This roof can be passed via a committing but well protected move at about M4 to gain the upper snow field. It can be easier in big snow years. P4, The upper headwall is split into three lines; the furthest right is the original easy ramble out, the central line (Coffee’d Up) rarely forms and when it does, generally climbs at about M4, which can be unprotectable near the top. The furthest left line climbs at about M3, is usually well protected but often requires an exciting, sugar snow mantel to finish.

Andy Mills, Rupert Gardiner

Walking the cat aka ridge Kunt

Head right at first big patch of snow on MK (after approx 1 pitch/50 m). Climb two rock steps to smaller snow patch and belay in crack under small overhang. Climb the nice, clean dihedral above the overhang, and then up a short chimney(30-40m). Step left at top of chimney to belay in nice crack. Follow the small ridge towards the telecom tower on easier ground(70-80m). Well protected climbing on mostly sound rock. A good option if you find the MK gully to be to snowy. Good warm up for the area. Not sure about the grading. One or two knifeblades can be handy.

Martine Frekhaug, Synne Bertelsen and Snorre Sulheim

Primal Scream

200m

Climb steep rock to right to MK, then break right into a narrow gully. Up big chockstone and corner.

Tony Burnell, Sally Ford and Michal Karnik 2012

Fringe Encounter

150m

This route started 5m below and just right of MK and climbed a steep wall before moving around left and up on loose rock, well to the left of any bolted routes. Once surmounting a 3m blank wall of M4 difficulty it carried on up easy ground reaching the crest of a ridge that it then followed on more easy ground to a kind of a headwall. Although the headwall is passable on the right side we climbed down 20m of snow to the left of the ridge in order to reach a small ice step leading up through a narrow gap on the left side of the headwall. The narrow gap widened out into a snow gully with rock steps, trending right. Once regaining the ridge crest either simply walk up the snowy RH finish of MK, or better still traverse right 20m and exit up into a mixed snow/rock gully that requires some bridging.

P Dickson, L Wynne Aug 2012

Stone Free

18 M5

40m up crack system left of E.T goes home. Finishes on a bollard left of a flat ledge (rap anchor on RHS of flat ledge above pitch 2 of E.T goes home).

FFA: Rupert Gardiner, Dave Bolger 2006.

E.T Goes Home

19 M6, 17 M5, 14 , 14

140m

Start up the right tending crack, towards the overhanging corner belay 10m above the overhang.

#	Ewbank	Mixed	Length	Trad
1	19	M6	140m	No
	Start up the right tending crack, towards the overhanging corner belay 10m above the overhang.
2	17	M5	0m	No
	Pitch 2, 35m, up easy crack to ledge, belay on the right, under corner Double Bolt Belay.
3	14		0m	No
	Pitch 3, 35m, up corner then traverse right through chimney block (rap bolts on back of block don’t belay here) climb arête and crack 3m up to ledge (or go the chickens version and scramble around further right) belay off bollard.
4	14		0m	No
	Pitch 4, 55m, up crack to summit of pinnacle. Rap anchor is on the left hand side.

FFA: Steve Fortune, Kevin Barrett, Daniel Joll 2011.

Couch Surfing

16 , 19

80m

Corner system 15m right of E.T Goes Home. Same first pitch as the system works. Pitch 1, up slightly chossy rock into excellent grade 16 left facing corner to finish at bolted anchor of the second pitch of E.T Goes Home. This is the same first pitch as the system works.

#	Ewbank	Length	Trad
1	16	50m	Yes
	Corner system 15m right of E.T Goes Home. Same first pitch as the system works. Pitch 1, up slightly chossy rock into excellent grade 16 left facing corner to finish at bolted anchor of the second pitch of E.T Goes Home. This is the same first pitch as the system works.
2	19	30m	Yes
	Into steep corner. LEft of the system works chimney. Climb this then into steep face tending slightly left along crack line, take Camalots to #4, finish at double bolt anchor same as rap point for E.T Goes Home. The slab on the second pitch needs a good brush.

Danny Murphy, Daniel Joll, Al Uren, Priska Fluetsch 2011.

Boys Don't Cry

17 M6

150m

Start as per The System Works. (basically the winter version of this route continuing onto the top of the wall) Instead of moving left head straight up the chimney with an obvious chock stone M6 or grade 17 in summer. After finishing pitch 2 head back left to join the ridge and the final three pitches. The last three pitches are in common with E.t goes home and The system works.

FA Danny Murphy Daniel Joll Summer 17 (chimney pitch)

The System Works

35m

Excellent winter route, Two pitches of sustained M5 climbing, followed by 3 more pitches to easier ground. Head up 50m to the ledge and bolted belay. Then bridge up the steep overhanging corner to belay at a ledge higher up. Up the face and wide crack M3, followed by and M4 pitch then easy ground to the top of the Telecom Tower. An excellent route for those wanting to climb a solid M5.

Danny Murphy, Daniel Joll, Al Uren, Priska Fluetsch 2011.

State of the Nation

M3, M2, M4

155m

A great route taking a right leaning ramp, the easiest line through some steep terrain. Start up chimney/corner system to left of Los Indegnados. The most natural winter line in the area normally with ice and turf.

#	Ewbank	Mixed	Length	Trad
1		M3	45m	No
	Start up chimney/corner system to left of Los Indegnados, belaying on snowfield to left of steep wall of LI.
2		M2	35m	No
	Chimney on left side of steep blank looking wall.
3		M4	75m	No
	Right hand corner exiting snowfield.

Rupert Gardiner, Niall Mueller 2009.

Golden Potato

Jonno Clarke, Danny Murphy 2012

Overdrive

155m

Start at the steep left angling corner in between Golden Potato and Fridays Fool. Pitch 1 (M5)- up slab to steep left angling corner, move right after corner to belay at bottom of right corner system not left corner system which is Couch potato Pitch 2- (M5) Continue up awkward rock steps to belay at the base of a ice gully pitch 3 (M4) - excellent climbing up ice gully continuing up corner with excellent protection, step left around bulge and continue up right corner pitch 4 (M4) - continue up corner and top out underneath slabs and left of book of fools - from here we rappled into fridays fool and topped out , or option of climbing last pitch of book of fools

Gemma Wilson

Los Indignados

17 , 18 , 21

70m

Takes the spectacular dome-shaped blank looking headwall halfway up the buttress.Can abseil 60m to ground from DBA on top of headwall. Reaching anchor can be tricky from ledge above, a short rap can be made from a thread above ledge to gain anchors.

#	Ewbank	Length	Trad
1	17	70m	Yes
	Look for a cairn at the base of a hand crack. Pitch 1: 17-15m. Pull over lip then up hand crack before pulling onto ledge.
2	18	0m	Yes
	Pitch 2: 18-35m. Belay left in break then move right and up left facing corner on great rock.
3	21	0m	Yes
	Pitch 3: 21, 20m. Head up amazing buttress on great quality rock. Traverse in from left on ledge, then launch up thin crack. 5m below the rap anchor step right around arête to good gear and easier terrain 20 (or head direct to the rap anchor using micro cams 21).

Daniel Joll, Steve Fortune, Kevin Barrett 2011.

11d

Los Indignados Direct

M5, M7, M5

Takes the spectacular dome-shaped blank looking headwall halfway up the buttress. Headwall is split by thin crack taking picks and small gear. Can abseil 60m to ground from DBA on top of headwall. Reaching anchor can be tricky from ledge above, a short rap can be made from a thread above ledge to gain anchors.

#	Ewbank	Mixed	Length	Trad
1		M5	0m	No
	Start directly below left facing corner, This is the left most of the two clear open book corners) on RHS. Up slabby, corner then step right onto steep wall. Up to base of vertical buttress.
2		M7	0m	No
	Belay off the large chock stone base of the wall. Move 3m up snow slope above chock stone. Direct up thin seam (3 x #2 wires) through overhang to ledge. Traverse left, then up thin crack. When crack peters out, can finish direct to DB Belay, or traverse right to arete, place gear then up thin and runout slab. regular wires and double cams to 1. single #2. Save a .75 and 1 for your final pieces before the last run out to the anchor.
3		M5	0m	No
	From snowfield above, there are several options. Can I Sit On it, Flaming Gerbil, or State of Nation finishes. Flaming Gerbil Pitch: Continue up large chimney system exiting via RH offwidth (loose runout and scary). The best option for a hard day is to finish the final pitch of Can I sit on it. An excellent 30m M7. (full range of gear to #4 or 5 camalot)

Daniel Joll, Steve Fortune 2012. escaping right before reaching the anchor M7

Flaming Gerbil

60m

Above the Los Indignados Headwall is a snowfield, then a steep headwall. There are a variety of exits. On the left is a wide square chimney. On the RHS of this chimney is a offwidth, known separately as the Flaming Gerbil pitch. Steep, loose and exciting. Named after a felching session that went seriously wrong: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KNYl4aU0w0w

Steven Fortune, Daniel Joll, 2012

CISOI

Can I Sit On It

10 M2, 15 M4, 18 WI3 , , 16 M4, 21 M7

150m

5 pitches. Around 40m left of Fridays Fool, start up easy left tending slab 15m to double bolt anchor. Alternate winter start: 15m direct to DB Belay, M6.

#	Ewbank	Water Ice	Mixed	Length	Trad
1	10		M2	150m	No
	5 pitches. Around 40m left of Fridays Fool, start up easy left tending slab 15m to double bolt anchor. Alternate winter start: 15m direct to DB Belay, M6.
2	15		M4	0m	No
	Pitch 2, 35m, up clear corner grade 15.
3	18	WI3		0m	No
	Pitch 3, an awesome open book corner for 15m, grade 18, then continue up slab and belay high on the right hand side.
4				0m	No
	Pitch 4, scramble for around 25m to the base of a chimney. From here, State of the Nation follows the right hand corner.
5	16		M4	0m	No
	Pitch 5, head directly up the middle via steep chimney, grade 16, 25m to the bottom of a steep finger and hand crack. The final 5m was pretty wet, so the pitch finished up on the left of the crack.
6	21		M7	0m	No
	Take the left hand corner. The RH corner is the Flaming Gerbil. Starts thin then widens to hands to finally offwidth. Save a #2 or #1 to protect final moves (placed on the face out left) then move back into the offwidth to top out there are some small cams or large wires to protect the final moves to the anchors.Double Bolt Belay. To descend Rap 60m, then down climb a little, and with a short belay reach the top of Los Indignados 60m rap from here to the ground.

FFA: Danny Murphy, Daniel Joll, Al Uren, Priska Fluetsch 2011.

Alternate start Can I Sit on It

15m

A short pitch, can be climbed as a direct start to Coddiwomple. first climbed on gear, subsequently retrobolted, 4 bolts no gear needed.

Jono Clarke Jaime Vinton Boot 2012

Backpfeifengesicht

The wide crack to the left of State of the Nation through the headwall above Los Indignados. Quite loose at start. Needs numerous large cams and much appendage jamming.

S Fortune, D Joll, Aug 2016

Coddiwomple

An asthetic corner leading to base of Los Indignados headwall with black wall on RHS. Nice climbing, requires a committed approach, there are now 4 bolts but the lower climbing is still committing above gear and the turf climbing to the anchors is still a long runout. Take doubles of #3 , #2 , and #1 Camalots, singles down to small blue, and some small wires. There is now a direct start, called "Pilates" which has 4 bolts. the name is because its short in duration but quite intense, and requires quite specific form to execute. steep and gymnastic. Grade M6 to be confirmed after successive ascents.

S Fortune, D Joll, Aug 2016

Thug Life

After the first pitch of State of the Nation, climb straight up a chimney above.

S Fortune, K Brown, 2015

Any man dies with a clean sword

120m

This is a pretty full on two pitch route followed by an easy snow climb to the top of the Telecom Tower. Pitch 1 M6 27m After climbing up the snow slope above los indignadous move up and left to belay at the base of a double crack corner. Belay. P1 up the twin cracks starting right, moving left. From the ledge move back right and around the corner with tricky moves to join the base of the main chimney. Belay on a small stance under a little roof. P2 6+ 30m move up and right being careful not to fall onto your belayer. Chimney is a bit loose but provides great challenging climbing. exit via the overhang with thin feet. Belaying 10m above the roof where the round gets easier. P3 60m easy snow slope to top of telecom tower. Double set of cams Green C3 - #4 C4. Single purple c3 single set of nuts.

Jono Clarke Daniel Joll

Night Crawlers

Start up State of the Nation, where that route turns up the chimney to the right, take the steep corner going straight up.

Lionel Clay, Merry Schimansky Aug 2017

Attribution:

Material from "REMARKABLES ICE & MIXED FESTIVAL ICE & MIXED GUIDE," 2012.

UUID:

fd84e2b2-5866-4468-91c9-6e764ec49438

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Unpublished projects

Permalink Submitted by jonathan on Wed, 05/08/2015 - 14:19

Unpublished projects 31,35,37,44,45 at Steve Fortune's request. Growling Dog is at http://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/saturday...

(23 routes)

Comments

Unpublished projects