Los Indignados Wall

(23 routes)

Telecom Tower's Left Hand Side. Wall between gullys of Minge Kunt, on left, to Friday's Fool and the Red Wall on the right.

Type: 
Face (Alpine)
Access: 

From Queens Drive

Lat/Lon: 
-45.062427250000, 168.802013400000
NZMS260: 
F41 795 633
Topo50: 
CC11 695 015
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Gout Route M4
0
2
On the wide buttress between Scapegoat and Minge Kunt. Start is just as you descend to the Los Indignados area, up slabby area above and left of bottom of Minge Kunt gully. Good rock belay in alcove to the right of climb. Top pitch is avoidable by going right up obvious gully (probably M2) or left on easy snow to meet ridge, making it a good first mixed lead with similar climbing to Minge Kunt or Saturday Morning Special. Pitch 1 - Slabby start leads to broken gully and then up long snow slope, heading right at top to good rock belay in alcove. M2/M3, 60m Pitch 2 - Step left from belay into fun corner with excellent gear and a couple of steeper steps. At top of gully, break left on slabby ground and onto wide easy angled snow above. First ascensionist belayed off a boulder in middle of snow field using a piton. May be easier to shorten this pitch and belay at bottom of snowfield. M3, 55m Pitch 3 - From belay, cross easy snowfield (on first ascent, party moved together here but could be pitched) and aim for obvious steep crack on ridge. Good rock belay on right of slab. Step left from belay up slab and then through off-width which become a crack at the top. Good gear and hooks all the way but thin feet make it quite pumpy. A piton got left next to crux on first ascent which you may be glad to clip, otherwise a big cam would come in handy. Fun pitch. Good spike belay on ridge. M4+, 20m (+40m of easy snow at start)
Matt Wilkinson,
1 Minge Kunt M3 150m
0
P1, Climb the obvious iced up gut. It can be difficult to find a belay at the end of the first 60m pitch, especially in big snow years. A snow stake may prove useful; a pink Tricam too. Otherwise it may be desirable for the second to simul-climb the first, easy snow slopes so the second can reach a large block at the top of the first icefall (large cams). P2-3, The initial, narrow, often iced up choke of the climb (P1-2) is where the main challenges lie, but the upper section can be climbed several different ways to make it easier or more challenging. From the first broad snowfield above the choke, the original route moves left up a short-mixed step to gain another broad snowfield. The original rout continues up this snowfield, but above this step, on the left wall there are two mixed lines that continue to the top at around M4. Alternatively: From the top of the initial ice gully one can deviate to the right to a great belay below a large chockstone roof feature. This roof can be passed via a committing but well protected move at about M4 to gain the upper snow field. It can be easier in big snow years. P4, The upper headwall is split into three lines; the furthest right is the original easy ramble out, the central line (Coffee’d Up) rarely forms and when it does, generally climbs at about M4, which can be unprotectable near the top. The furthest left line climbs at about M3, is usually well protected but often requires an exciting, sugar snow mantel to finish.
Andy Mills, Rupert Gardiner
2 Walking the cat aka ridge Kunt M3
1.02
Head right at first big patch of snow on Minge Kunt(after approx 1 pitch/50 m). Climb two rock steps to smaller snow patch and belay in crack under small overhang. Climb the nice, clean dihedral above the overhang, and then up a short chimney(30-40m). Step left at top of chimney to belay in nice crack. Follow the small ridge towards the telecom tower on easier ground(70-80m). Well protected climbing on mostly sound rock. A good option if you find the Minge Kunt gully to be to snowy. Good warm up for the area. Not sure about the grading. One or two knifeblades can be handy.
Martine Frekhaug, Synne Bertelsen and Snorre Sulheim
3 Primal Scream M4 200m
0
Climb steep rock to right to Minge Kunt, then break right into a narrow gully. Up big chockstone and corner.
Tony Burnell, Sally Ford and Michal Karnik 2012
4 Fringe Encounter M4 150m
0
This route started 5m below and just right of Minge Kunt and climbed a steep wall before moving around left and up on loose rock, well to the left of any bolted routes. Once surmounting a 3m blank wall of M4 difficulty it carried on up easy ground reaching the crest of a ridge that it then followed on more easy ground to a kind of a headwall. Although the headwall is passable on the right side we climbed down 20m of snow to the left of the ridge in order to reach a small ice step leading up through a narrow gap on the left side of the headwall. The narrow gap widened out into a snow gully with rock steps, trending right. Once regaining the ridge crest either simply walk up the snowy RH finish of Minge Kunt, or better still traverse right 20m and exit up into a mixed snow/rock gully that requires some bridging.
P Dickson, L Wynne Aug 2012
5 Stone Free 18 M5
2.01
40m up crack system left of E.T goes home. Finishes on a bollard left of a flat ledge (rap anchor on RHS of flat ledge above pitch 2 of E.T goes home).
FFA: Rupert Gardiner, Dave Bolger 2006.
6 E.T Goes Home 19 M6, 17 M5, 14 , 14 140m
0
Start up the right tending crack, towards the overhanging corner belay 10m above the overhang.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
119M6140mNo
 

Start up the right
tending crack, towards the overhanging
corner belay 10m above the overhang.

217M50mNo
 

Pitch 2, 35m, up easy crack
to ledge, belay on the right, under
corner Double Bolt Belay.

3140mNo
 

Pitch 3, 35m,
up corner then traverse right through
chimney block (rap bolts on back of
block don’t belay here) climb arête
and crack 3m up to ledge (or go the
chickens version and scramble around
further right) belay off bollard.

4140mNo
 

Pitch
4, 55m, up crack to summit of pinnacle.
Rap anchor is on the left hand
side.

FFA: Steve Fortune, Kevin Barrett, Daniel Joll 2011.
7 Couch Surfing 16 , 19 80m
0
wire representing trad
Corner system 15m right of E.T Goes Home. Same first pitch as the system works. Pitch 1, up slightly chossy rock into excellent grade 16 left facing corner to finish at bolted anchor of the second pitch of E.T Goes Home. This is the same first pitch as the system works.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11650mYes
 

Corner system 15m
right of E.T Goes Home. Same first pitch as the system works. Pitch 1, up
slightly chossy rock into excellent
grade 16 left facing corner to finish
at bolted anchor of the second pitch
of E.T Goes Home. This is the same first pitch as the system works.

21930mYes
 

Into steep corner. LEft of the system works chimney.
Climb this then into steep face
tending slightly left along crack line,
take Camalots to #4, finish at double
bolt anchor same as rap point for E.T
Goes Home. The slab on the second
pitch needs a good brush.

Danny Murphy, Daniel Joll, Al Uren, Priska Fluetsch 2011.
10 Boys Don't Cry 17 M6 150m
2.01
wire representing trad
Start as per The System Works. (basically the winter version of this route continuing onto the top of the wall) Instead of moving left head straight up the chimney with an obvious chock stone M6 or grade 17 in summer. After finishing pitch 2 head back left to join the ridge and the final three pitches. The last three pitches are in common with E.t goes home and The system works.
FA Danny Murphy Daniel Joll Summer 17 (chimney pitch)
8 The System Works 17 35m
2.01
2
Excellent winter route, Two pitches of sustained M5 climbing, followed by 3 more pitches to easier ground. Head up 50m to the ledge and bolted belay. Then bridge up the steep overhanging corner to belay at a ledge higher up. Up the face and wide crack M3, followed by and M4 pitch then easy ground to the top of the Telecom Tower. An excellent route for those wanting to climb a solid M5.
Danny Murphy, Daniel Joll, Al Uren, Priska Fluetsch 2011.
9 State of the Nation M3, M2, M4 155m
3
A great route taking a right leaning ramp, the easiest line through some steep terrain. Start up chimney/corner system to left of Los Indegnados. The most natural winter line in the area normally with ice and turf.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1M345mNo
 

Start up chimney/corner system to left of Los Indegnados, belaying on snowfield to left of steep wall of LI.

2M235mNo
 

Chimney on left side of steep blank looking wall.

3M475mNo
 

Right hand corner exiting snowfield.

Rupert Gardiner, Niall Mueller 2009.
13 Golden Potato M6
0
Jonno Clarke, Danny Murphy 2012
OD Overdrive M5 155m
2.01
Start at the steep left angling corner in between Golden Potato and Fridays Fool. Pitch 1 (M5)- up slab to steep left angling corner, move right after corner to belay at bottom of right corner system not left corner system which is Couch potato Pitch 2- (M5) Continue up awkward rock steps to belay at the base of a ice gully pitch 3 (M4) - excellent climbing up ice gully continuing up corner with excellent protection, step left around bulge and continue up right corner pitch 4 (M4) - continue up corner and top out underneath slabs and left of book of fools - from here we rappled into fridays fool and topped out , or option of climbing last pitch of book of fools
Gemma Wilson
11 Los Indignados 17 , 18 , 21 70m
0
wire representing trad
Takes the spectacular dome-shaped blank looking headwall halfway up the buttress.Can abseil 60m to ground from DBA on top of headwall. Reaching anchor can be tricky from ledge above, a short rap can be made from a thread above ledge to gain anchors.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11770mYes
 

Look for a cairn at the base of a hand
crack. Pitch 1: 17-15m. Pull over lip then up hand crack before
pulling onto ledge.

2180mYes
 

Pitch 2: 18-35m. Belay left in break then
move right and up left facing corner on great rock.

3210mYes
 

Pitch 3: 21,
20m. Head up amazing buttress on great quality rock. Traverse in from left on ledge, then launch up thin crack. 5m
below the rap anchor step right around arête to good gear
and easier terrain 20 (or head direct to the rap anchor using
micro cams 21).

Daniel Joll, Steve Fortune, Kevin Barrett 2011.
11d Los Indignados Direct M5, M7, M5
3
2 3
Takes the spectacular dome-shaped blank looking headwall halfway up the buttress. Headwall is split by thin crack taking picks and small gear. Can abseil 60m to ground from DBA on top of headwall. Reaching anchor can be tricky from ledge above, a short rap can be made from a thread above ledge to gain anchors.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1M50mNo
 

Start directly below left facing corner, This is the left most of the two clear open book corners) on RHS. Up slabby, corner then step right onto steep wall. Up to base of vertical buttress.

2M70mNo
 

Belay off the large chock stone base of the wall. Move 3m up snow slope above chock stone. Direct up thin seam (3 x #2 wires) through overhang to ledge. Traverse left, then up thin crack. When crack peters out, can finish direct to DB Belay, or traverse right to arete, place gear then up thin and runout slab. regular wires and double cams to 1. single #2. Save a .75 and 1 for your final pieces before the last run out to the anchor.

3M50mNo
 

From snowfield above, there are several options. Can I Sit On it, Flaming Gerbil, or State of Nation finishes.
Flaming Gerbil Pitch: Continue up large chimney system exiting via RH offwidth (loose runout and scary). The best option for a hard day is to finish the final pitch of Can I sit on it. An excellent 30m M7. (full range of gear to #4 or 5 camalot)

Daniel Joll, Steve Fortune 2012. escaping right before reaching the anchor M7
12 Flaming Gerbil M5 60m
0
wire representing trad
Above the Los Indignados Headwall is a snowfield, then a steep headwall. There are a variety of exits. On the left is a wide square chimney. On the RHS of this chimney is a offwidth, known separately as the Flaming Gerbil pitch. Steep, loose and exciting. Named after a felching session that went seriously wrong: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KNYl4aU0w0w
Steven Fortune, Daniel Joll, 2012
CISOI Can I Sit On It 10 M2, 15 M4, 18 WI3 , , 16 M4, 21 M7 150m
2.01
5 pitches. Around 40m left of Fridays Fool, start up easy left tending slab 15m to double bolt anchor. Alternate winter start: 15m direct to DB Belay, M6.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
110M2150mNo
 

5 pitches. Around 40m left of Fridays Fool, start up easy
left tending slab 15m to double bolt anchor. Alternate winter start: 15m direct to DB Belay, M6.

215M40mNo
 

Pitch 2, 35m, up
clear corner grade 15.

318WI30mNo
 

Pitch 3, an awesome open book corner
for 15m, grade 18, then continue up slab and belay high
on the right hand side.

40mNo
 

Pitch 4, scramble for around 25m to the
base of a chimney. From here, State of the Nation follows
the right hand corner.

516M40mNo
 

Pitch 5, head directly up the middle via
steep chimney, grade 16, 25m to the bottom of a steep
finger and hand crack. The final 5m was pretty wet, so
the pitch finished up on the left of the crack.

621M70mNo
 

Take the left hand corner. The RH corner is the Flaming Gerbil. Starts thin then widens to hands to finally offwidth. Save a #2 or #1 to protect final moves (placed on the face out left) then move back into the offwidth to top out there are some small cams or large wires to protect the final moves to the anchors.Double Bolt
Belay. To descend Rap 60m, then down climb a little, and with a short
belay reach the top of Los Indignados 60m rap from here
to the ground.

FFA: Danny Murphy, Daniel Joll, Al Uren, Priska Fluetsch 2011.
Alternate start Can I Sit on It M6 15m
0
wire representing trad
Look for the double bolt belay of Can I Sit on It. Directly below this head up steep overhanging ground for a short burly pitch.
Jono Clarke Jaime Vinton Boot 2012
13 Backpfeifengesicht M6
0
wire representing trad
The wide crack to the left of State of the Nation through the headwall above Los Indignados. Quite loose at start. Needs numerous large cams and much appendage jamming.
S Fortune, D Joll, Aug 2016
CW Coddiwomple M6
3
4bolts
An asthetic corner leading to base of Los Indignados headwall with black wall on RHS. Nice climbing, requires a committed approach, there are now 4 bolts but the lower climbing is still committing above gear and the turf climbing to the anchors is still a long runout. Take doubles of #3 , #2 , and #1 Camalots, singles down to small blue, and some small wires. There is now a direct start, called "Pilates" which has 4 bolts. the name is because its short in duration but quite intense, and requires quite specific form to execute. steep and gymnastic. Grade M6 to be confirmed after successive ascents.
S Fortune, D Joll, Aug 2016
TL Thug Life M5
0
After the first pitch of State of the Nation, climb straight up a chimney above.
S Fortune, K Brown, 2015
15 Any man dies with a clean sword M6 120m
1.02
wire representing trad
This is a pretty full on two pitch route followed by an easy snow climb to the top of the Telecom Tower. Pitch 1 M6 27m After climbing up the snow slope above los indignadous move up and left to belay at the base of a double crack corner. Belay. P1 up the twin cracks starting right, moving left. From the ledge move back right and around the corner with tricky moves to join the base of the main chimney. Belay on a small stance under a little roof. P2 6+ 30m move up and right being careful not to fall onto your belayer. Chimney is a bit loose but provides great challenging climbing. exit via the overhang with thin feet. Belaying 10m above the roof where the round gets easier. P3 60m easy snow slope to top of telecom tower. Double set of cams Green C3 - #4 C4. Single purple c3 single set of nuts.
Jono Clarke Daniel Joll
NC Night Crawlers M6
0
wire representing trad
Start up State of the Nation, where that route turns up the chimney to the right, take the steep corner going straight up.
Lionel Clay, Merry Schimansky Aug 2017
Attribution: 
Material from "REMARKABLES ICE & MIXED FESTIVAL ICE & MIXED GUIDE," 2012.
UUID: 
fd84e2b2-5866-4468-91c9-6e764ec49438

Comments

Unpublished projects 31,35,37,44,45 at Steve Fortune's request. Growling Dog is at http://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/saturday...