MK

P1, Climb the obvious iced up gut. It can be difficult to find a belay at the
end of the first 60m pitch, especially in big snow years. A snow stake may
prove useful; a pink Tricam too. Otherwise it may be desirable for the second
to simul-climb the first, easy snow slopes so the second can reach a large
block at the top of the first icefall (large cams).
P2-3, The initial, narrow, often iced up choke of the climb (P1-2) is where
the main challenges lie, but the upper section can be climbed several
different ways to make it easier or more challenging. From the first broad
snowfield above the choke, the original route moves left up a short-mixed
step to gain another broad snowfield. The original rout continues up this
snowfield, but above this step, on the left wall there are two mixed lines
that continue to the top at around M4.
Alternatively:
From the top of the initial ice gully one can deviate to the right to a great
belay below a large chockstone roof feature. This roof can be passed via a
committing but well protected move at about M4 to gain the upper snow field.
It can be easier in big snow years.
P4, The upper headwall is split into three lines; the furthest right is the
original easy ramble out, the central line (Coffee’d Up) rarely forms and
when it does, generally climbs at about M4, which can be unprotectable near
the top. The furthest left line climbs at about M3, is usually well protected
but often requires an exciting, sugar snow mantel to finish.
The start of this route is unsafe in warm conditions.