Telecom Tower's Left Hand Side. Wall between gullys of MK, on left, to Friday's Fool and the Red Wall on the right.
From Queens Drive
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
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Gout Route, M4 | M4 | 0m | |||||
On the wide buttress between Scapegoat and MK. Start is just as you
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1 | 1MK, M3 | M3 | 150m | ||||
P1, Climb the obvious iced up gut. It can be difficult to find a belay at the
MK is the classic moderate route of the area. Generally climbed in 4 pitches.Climb the obvious gully before you reach the Telecom Tower. Mainly on moderately angled snow with several small rocky mixed steps. |
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2 | 2Walking the cat aka ridge Kunt, M3 | M3 | 0m | ||||
Head right at first big patch of snow on MK (after approx 1 pitch/50
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3 | 3Primal Scream, M4 | M4 | 200m | ||||
Climb steep rock to right to MK, then break right into a narrow
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4 | 4Fringe Encounter, M4 | M4 | 150m | ||||
This route started 5m below and just right of MK and climbed a steep wall before moving around left and up on loose rock, well to the left of any bolted routes. Once surmounting a 3m blank wall of M4 difficulty it carried on up easy ground reaching the crest of a ridge that it then followed on more easy ground to a kind of a headwall. Although the headwall is passable on the right side we climbed down 20m of snow to the left of the ridge in order to reach a small ice step leading up through a narrow gap on the left side of the headwall. The narrow gap widened out into a snow gully with rock steps, trending right. Once regaining the ridge crest either simply walk up the snowy RH finish of MK, or better still traverse right 20m and exit up into a mixed snow/rock gully that requires some bridging. |
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5 | 5Stone Free, 18,M5 | 18,M5 | 0m | ||||
40m up crack system left of E.T goes home. Finishes on a bollard left of a flat ledge (rap anchor on RHS of flat ledge above pitch 2 of E.T goes home). |
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6 | 6E.T Goes Home, 19,M6 | 19,M6 | 140m | ||||
Start up the right tending crack, towards the overhanging corner belay 10m above the overhang.
Pitch 2, 35m, up easy crack to ledge, belay on the right, under corner Double Bolt Belay.
Pitch 3, 35m, up corner then traverse right through chimney block (rap bolts on back of block don’t belay here) climb arête and crack 3m up to ledge (or go the chickens version and scramble around further right) belay off bollard.
Pitch 4, 55m, up crack to summit of pinnacle. Rap anchor is on the left hand side. |
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7 | 7Couch Surfing, 19 | 19 | 80m | ||||
Corner system 15m right of E.T Goes Home. Same first pitch as the system works. Pitch 1, up slightly chossy rock into excellent grade 16 left facing corner to finish at bolted anchor of the second pitch of E.T Goes Home. This is the same first pitch as the system works.
Into steep corner. LEft of the system works chimney. Climb this then into steep face tending slightly left along crack line, take Camalots to #4, finish at double bolt anchor same as rap point for E.T Goes Home. The slab on the second pitch needs a good brush. |
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10 | 10Boys Don't Cry, 17,M6 | 17,M6 | 150m | ||||
Start as per The System Works. (basically the winter version of this route
Start up the system works then head toward the obvious chimney with a chock stone high up. From here continue to the top of the buttress. |
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8 | 8The System Works, 17 | 17 | 35m | ||||
Excellent winter route, Two pitches of sustained M5 climbing, followed by 3
From a ledge part way along State of the Nation, head up clear, steep chimney, climbing out around chock stone and finish at the same bolted belay as the last pitch of Couch Surfing. Use the 2nd rap anchor for E.T. Goes Home. Can be climbed from the ground, starting up Couch Surfing or by traversing in from the right. |
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9 | 9State of the Nation, M3 | M3 | 155m | ||||
A great route taking a right leaning ramp, the easiest line through some
Start up chimney/corner system to left of Los Indegnados, belaying on snowfield to left of steep wall of LI.
Chimney on left side of steep blank looking wall.
Right hand corner exiting snowfield. |
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13 | 13Golden Potato, M6 | M6 | 0m | ||||
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FP | FPFried Potato, M6 | M6 | 0m | ||||
Alternate Start to Golden Potato or Coddiwomple. Take the direct line through the overhanging corner. You may want a durable jacket to survive and awkward shoulder jams
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OD | ODOverdrive, M5 | M5 | 155m | ||||
Start at the steep left angling corner in between Golden Potato and Fridays
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11 | 11Los Indignados, 21 | 21 | 70m | ||||
Takes the spectacular dome-shaped blank looking headwall halfway up the
Look for a cairn at the base of a hand crack. Pitch 1: 17-15m. Pull over lip then up hand crack before pulling onto ledge.
Pitch 2: 18-35m. Belay left in break then move right and up left facing corner on great rock.
Pitch 3: 21, 20m. Head up amazing buttress on great quality rock. Traverse in from left on ledge, then launch up thin crack. 5m below the rap anchor step right around arête to good gear and easier terrain 20 (or head direct to the rap anchor using micro cams 21). |
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11d | 11dLos Indignados Direct, M5 | M5 | 0m | ||||
Takes the spectacular dome-shaped blank looking headwall halfway up the
Start directly below left facing corner, This is the left most of the two clear open book corners) on RHS. Up slabby, corner then step right onto steep wall. Up to base of vertical buttress.
Belay off the large chock stone base of the wall. Move 3m up snow slope above chock stone. Direct up thin seam (3 x #2 wires) through overhang to ledge. Traverse left, then up thin crack. When crack peters out, can finish direct to DB Belay, or traverse right to arete, place gear then up thin and runout slab. regular wires and double cams to 1. single #2. Save a .75 and 1 for your final pieces before the last run out to the anchor.
From snowfield above, there are several options. Can I Sit On it, Flaming Gerbil, or State of Nation finishes. Flaming Gerbil Pitch: Continue up large chimney system exiting via RH offwidth (loose runout and scary). The best option for a hard day is to finish the final pitch of Can I sit on it. An excellent 30m M7. (full range of gear to #4 or 5 camalot) |
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12 | 12Flaming Gerbil, M5 | M5 | 60m | ||||
Above the Los Indignados Headwall is a snowfield, then a steep headwall.
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CISOI | CISOICan I Sit On It, 21,WI3,M2 | 21,WI3,M2 | 150m | ||||
5 pitches. Around 40m left of Fridays Fool, start up easy left tending slab 15m to double bolt anchor. Alternate winter start: 15m direct to DB Belay, M6.
Pitch 2, 35m, up clear corner grade 15.
Pitch 3, an awesome open book corner for 15m, grade 18, then continue up slab and belay high on the right hand side.
Pitch 4, scramble for around 25m to the base of a chimney. From here, State of the Nation follows the right hand corner.
Pitch 5, head directly up the middle via steep chimney, grade 16, 25m to the bottom of a steep finger and hand crack. The final 5m was pretty wet, so the pitch finished up on the left of the crack.
Take the left hand corner. The RH corner is the Flaming Gerbil. Starts thin then widens to hands to finally offwidth. Save a #2 or #1 to protect final moves (placed on the face out left) then move back into the offwidth to top out there are some small cams or large wires to protect the final moves to the anchors.Double Bolt Belay. To descend Rap 60m, then down climb a little, and with a short belay reach the top of Los Indignados 60m rap from here to the ground. |
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Alternate start Can I Sit on It, M6 | M6 | 15m | |||||
A short pitch, can be climbed as a direct start to Coddiwomple. first climbed on gear, subsequently retrobolted, 4 bolts no gear needed.
Look for the double bolt belay of Can I Sit on It. Directly below this head up steep overhanging ground for a short burly pitch. |
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13 | 13Backpfeifengesicht, M6 | M6 | 0m | ||||
The wide crack to the left of State of the Nation through the headwall above
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CW | CWCoddiwomple, M6 | M6 | 0m | 4 | |||
An asthetic corner leading to base of Los Indignados headwall with black wall
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TL | TLThug Life, M5 | M5 | 0m | ||||
After the first pitch of State of the Nation, climb straight up a chimney
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15 | 15Any man dies with a clean sword, M6 | M6 | 120m | ||||
This is a pretty full on two pitch route followed by an easy snow climb to
The big chimney and corner system (leftmost) corner system above the snow patch above los indignados direct |
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NC | NCNight Crawlers, M6 | M6 | 0m | ||||
Start up State of the Nation, where that route turns up the chimney to the
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Unpublished projects 31,35,37,44,45 at Steve Fortune's request. Growling Dog is at http://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/saturda…