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Los Indignados Wall

Type
Part of

Telecom Tower's Left Hand Side. Wall between gullys of MK, on left, to Friday's Fool and the Red Wall on the right.

Image
Lat/lon
POINT (168.8020134 -45.06242725)
Topo50
CC11 695 015
Access

From Queens Drive

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
 Gout Route, M4 M4 0m
0

On the wide buttress between Scapegoat and MK. Start is just as you
descend to the Los Indignados area, up slabby area above and left of bottom
of MK gully. Good rock belay in alcove to the right of climb. Top
pitch is avoidable by going right up obvious gully (probably M2) or left on
easy snow to meet ridge, making it a good first mixed lead with similar
climbing to MK or Saturday Morning Special.
Pitch 1 - Slabby start leads to broken gully and then up long snow slope,
heading right at top to good rock belay in alcove. M2/M3, 60m
Pitch 2 - Step left from belay into fun corner with excellent gear and a
couple of steeper steps. At top of gully, break left on slabby ground and
onto wide easy angled snow above. First ascensionist belayed off a boulder in
middle of snow field using a piton. May be easier to shorten this pitch and
belay at bottom of snowfield. M3, 55m
Pitch 3 - From belay, cross easy snowfield (on first ascent, party moved
together here but could be pitched) and aim for obvious steep crack on ridge.
Good rock belay on right of slab. Step left from belay up slab and then
through off-width which become a crack at the top. Good gear and hooks all
the way but thin feet make it quite pumpy. A piton got left next to crux on
first ascent which you may be glad to clip, otherwise a big cam would come in
handy. Fun pitch. Good spike belay on ridge. M4+, 20m (+40m of easy snow at
start)


  • P1
  • Mixed M4

1 1MK, M3 M3 150m
0

P1, Climb the obvious iced up gut. It can be difficult to find a belay at the
end of the first 60m pitch, especially in big snow years. A snow stake may
prove useful; a pink Tricam too. Otherwise it may be desirable for the second
to simul-climb the first, easy snow slopes so the second can reach a large
block at the top of the first icefall (large cams).
P2-3, The initial, narrow, often iced up choke of the climb (P1-2) is where
the main challenges lie, but the upper section can be climbed several
different ways to make it easier or more challenging. From the first broad
snowfield above the choke, the original route moves left up a short-mixed
step to gain another broad snowfield. The original rout continues up this
snowfield, but above this step, on the left wall there are two mixed lines
that continue to the top at around M4.
Alternatively:
From the top of the initial ice gully one can deviate to the right to a great
belay below a large chockstone roof feature. This roof can be passed via a
committing but well protected move at about M4 to gain the upper snow field.
It can be easier in big snow years.
P4, The upper headwall is split into three lines; the furthest right is the
original easy ramble out, the central line (Coffee’d Up) rarely forms and
when it does, generally climbs at about M4, which can be unprotectable near
the top. The furthest left line climbs at about M3, is usually well protected
but often requires an exciting, sugar snow mantel to finish.
The start of this route is unsafe in warm conditions.


  • P1
  • Mixed M3
  • 150m

MK is the classic moderate route of the area. Generally climbed in 4 pitches.Climb the obvious gully before you reach the Telecom Tower. Mainly on moderately angled snow with several small rocky mixed steps.


2 2Walking the cat aka ridge Kunt, M3 M3 0m
1.02

Head right at first big patch of snow on MK (after approx 1 pitch/50
m). Climb two rock steps to smaller snow patch and belay in crack under small
overhang. Climb the nice, clean dihedral above the overhang, and then up a
short chimney(30-40m). Step left at top of chimney to belay in nice crack.
Follow the small ridge towards the telecom tower on easier ground(70-80m).
Well protected climbing on mostly sound rock. A good option if you find the
MK gully to be to snowy. Good warm up for the area. Not sure about
the grading. One or two knifeblades can be handy.


  • P1
  • Mixed M3

3 3Primal Scream, M4 M4 200m
0

Climb steep rock to right to MK, then break right into a narrow
gully. Up big chockstone and corner.


  • P1
  • Mixed M4
  • 200m

4 4Fringe Encounter, M4 M4 150m
0

  • P1
  • Mixed M4
  • 150m

This route started 5m below and just right of MK and climbed a steep wall before moving around left and up on loose rock, well to the left of any bolted routes. Once surmounting a 3m blank wall of M4 difficulty it carried on up easy ground reaching the crest of a ridge that it then followed on more easy ground to a kind of a headwall. Although the headwall is passable on the right side we climbed down 20m of snow to the left of the ridge in order to reach a small ice step leading up through a narrow gap on the left side of the headwall. The narrow gap widened out into a snow gully with rock steps, trending right. Once regaining the ridge crest either simply walk up the snowy RH finish of MK, or better still traverse right 20m and exit up into a mixed snow/rock gully that requires some bridging.


5 5Stone Free, 18,M5 18,M5 0m
2.01

  • P1
  • 18
  • Mixed M5

40m up crack system left of E.T goes home. Finishes on a bollard left of a flat ledge (rap anchor on RHS of flat ledge above pitch 2 of E.T goes home).


6 6E.T Goes Home, 19,M6 19,M6 140m
0

  • P1
  • 19
  • Mixed M6
  • 140m

Start up the right tending crack, towards the overhanging corner belay 10m above the overhang.


  • P2
  • 17
  • Mixed M5

Pitch 2, 35m, up easy crack to ledge, belay on the right, under corner Double Bolt Belay.


  • P3
  • 14

Pitch 3, 35m, up corner then traverse right through chimney block (rap bolts on back of block don’t belay here) climb arête and crack 3m up to ledge (or go the chickens version and scramble around further right) belay off bollard.


  • P4
  • 14

Pitch 4, 55m, up crack to summit of pinnacle. Rap anchor is on the left hand side.


7 7Couch Surfing, 19 19 80m
0

  • P1
  • 16
  • 50m
  • Trad

Corner system 15m right of E.T Goes Home. Same first pitch as the system works. Pitch 1, up slightly chossy rock into excellent grade 16 left facing corner to finish at bolted anchor of the second pitch of E.T Goes Home. This is the same first pitch as the system works.


  • P2
  • 19
  • 30m
  • Trad

Into steep corner. LEft of the system works chimney. Climb this then into steep face tending slightly left along crack line, take Camalots to #4, finish at double bolt anchor same as rap point for E.T Goes Home. The slab on the second pitch needs a good brush.


10 10Boys Don't Cry, 17,M6 17,M6 150m
2.01

Start as per The System Works. (basically the winter version of this route
continuing onto the top of the wall) Instead of moving left head straight up
the chimney with an obvious chock stone M6 or grade 17 in summer. After
finishing pitch 2 head back left to join the ridge and the final three
pitches. The last three pitches are in common with E.t goes home and The
system works.


  • P1
  • 17
  • Mixed M6
  • 150m
  • Trad

Start up the system works then head toward the obvious chimney with a chock stone high up. From here continue to the top of the buttress.


8 8The System Works, 17 17 35m
2.01

Excellent winter route, Two pitches of sustained M5 climbing, followed by 3
more pitches to easier ground. Head up 50m to the ledge and bolted belay.
Then bridge up the steep overhanging corner to belay at a ledge higher up.
Up the face and wide crack M3, followed by and M4 pitch then easy ground to
the top of the Telecom Tower. An excellent route for those wanting to climb
a solid M5.


  • P1
  • 17
  • 35m

From a ledge part way along State of the Nation, head up clear, steep chimney, climbing out around chock stone and finish at the same bolted belay as the last pitch of Couch Surfing. Use the 2nd rap anchor for E.T. Goes Home. Can be climbed from the ground, starting up Couch Surfing or by traversing in from the right.


9 9State of the Nation, M3 M3 155m
3

A great route taking a right leaning ramp, the easiest line through some
steep terrain. Start up chimney/corner system to left of Los Indegnados. The
most natural winter line in the area normally with ice and turf.


  • P1
  • Mixed M3
  • 45m

Start up chimney/corner system to left of Los Indegnados, belaying on snowfield to left of steep wall of LI.


  • P2
  • Mixed M2
  • 35m

Chimney on left side of steep blank looking wall.


  • P3
  • Mixed M4
  • 75m

Right hand corner exiting snowfield.


13 13Golden Potato, M6 M6 0m
0

  • P1
  • Mixed M6

FP FPFried Potato, M6 M6 0m
0

Alternate Start to Golden Potato or Coddiwomple. Take the direct line through the overhanging corner. You may want a durable jacket to survive and awkward shoulder jams


  • P1
  • Mixed M6

OD ODOverdrive, M5 M5 155m
2.01

Start at the steep left angling corner in between Golden Potato and Fridays
Fool.
Pitch 1 (M5)- up slab to steep left angling corner, move right after corner
to belay at bottom of right corner system not left corner system which is
Couch potato
Pitch 2- (M5) Continue up awkward rock steps to belay at the base of a ice
gully
pitch 3 (M4) - excellent climbing up ice gully continuing up corner with
excellent protection, step left around bulge and continue up right corner
pitch 4 (M4) - continue up corner and top out underneath slabs and left of
book of fools - from here we rappled into fridays fool and topped out , or
option of climbing last pitch of book of fools


  • P1
  • Mixed M5
  • 155m

11 11Los Indignados, 21 21 70m
0

Takes the spectacular dome-shaped blank looking headwall halfway up the
buttress.Can abseil 60m to ground from DBA on top of headwall. Reaching
anchor can be tricky from ledge above, a short rap can be made from a thread
above ledge to gain anchors.


  • P1
  • 17
  • 70m
  • Trad

Look for a cairn at the base of a hand crack. Pitch 1: 17-15m. Pull over lip then up hand crack before pulling onto ledge.


  • P2
  • 18
  • Trad

Pitch 2: 18-35m. Belay left in break then move right and up left facing corner on great rock.


  • P3
  • 21
  • Trad

Pitch 3: 21, 20m. Head up amazing buttress on great quality rock. Traverse in from left on ledge, then launch up thin crack. 5m below the rap anchor step right around arête to good gear and easier terrain 20 (or head direct to the rap anchor using micro cams 21).


11d 11dLos Indignados Direct, M5 M5 0m
3

Takes the spectacular dome-shaped blank looking headwall halfway up the
buttress. Headwall is split by thin crack taking picks and small gear. Can
abseil 60m to ground from DBA on top of headwall. Reaching anchor can be
tricky from ledge above, a short rap can be made from a thread above ledge to
gain anchors.


  • P1
  • Mixed M5

Start directly below left facing corner, This is the left most of the two clear open book corners) on RHS. Up slabby, corner then step right onto steep wall. Up to base of vertical buttress.


  • P2
  • Mixed M7

Belay off the large chock stone base of the wall. Move 3m up snow slope above chock stone. Direct up thin seam (3 x #2 wires) through overhang to ledge. Traverse left, then up thin crack. When crack peters out, can finish direct to DB Belay, or traverse right to arete, place gear then up thin and runout slab. regular wires and double cams to 1. single #2. Save a .75 and 1 for your final pieces before the last run out to the anchor.


  • P3
  • Mixed M5

From snowfield above, there are several options. Can I Sit On it, Flaming Gerbil, or State of Nation finishes. Flaming Gerbil Pitch: Continue up large chimney system exiting via RH offwidth (loose runout and scary). The best option for a hard day is to finish the final pitch of Can I sit on it. An excellent 30m M7. (full range of gear to #4 or 5 camalot)


12 12Flaming Gerbil, M5 M5 60m
0

Above the Los Indignados Headwall is a snowfield, then a steep headwall.
There are a variety of exits. On the left is a wide square chimney. On the
RHS of this chimney is a offwidth, known separately as the Flaming Gerbil
pitch. Steep, loose and exciting. Named after a felching session that went
seriously wrong: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KNYl4aU0w0w


  • P1
  • Mixed M5
  • 60m
  • Trad

CISOI CISOICan I Sit On It, 21,WI3,M2 21,WI3,M2 150m
2.01

  • P1
  • 10
  • Mixed M2
  • 150m

5 pitches. Around 40m left of Fridays Fool, start up easy left tending slab 15m to double bolt anchor. Alternate winter start: 15m direct to DB Belay, M6.


  • P2
  • 15
  • Mixed M4

Pitch 2, 35m, up clear corner grade 15.


  • P3
  • 18
  • Water Ice WI3

Pitch 3, an awesome open book corner for 15m, grade 18, then continue up slab and belay high on the right hand side.


  • P4

Pitch 4, scramble for around 25m to the base of a chimney. From here, State of the Nation follows the right hand corner.


  • P5
  • 16
  • Mixed M4

Pitch 5, head directly up the middle via steep chimney, grade 16, 25m to the bottom of a steep finger and hand crack. The final 5m was pretty wet, so the pitch finished up on the left of the crack.


  • P6
  • 21
  • Mixed M7

Take the left hand corner. The RH corner is the Flaming Gerbil. Starts thin then widens to hands to finally offwidth. Save a #2 or #1 to protect final moves (placed on the face out left) then move back into the offwidth to top out there are some small cams or large wires to protect the final moves to the anchors.Double Bolt Belay. To descend Rap 60m, then down climb a little, and with a short belay reach the top of Los Indignados 60m rap from here to the ground.


 Alternate start Can I Sit on It, M6 M6 15m
0

A short pitch, can be climbed as a direct start to Coddiwomple. first climbed on gear, subsequently retrobolted, 4 bolts no gear needed.


  • P1
  • Mixed M6
  • 15m
  • Trad

Look for the double bolt belay of Can I Sit on It. Directly below this head up steep overhanging ground for a short burly pitch.


13 13Backpfeifengesicht, M6 M6 0m
0

The wide crack to the left of State of the Nation through the headwall above
Los Indignados. Quite loose at start. Needs numerous large cams and much
appendage jamming.


  • P1
  • Mixed M6
  • Trad

CW CWCoddiwomple, M6 M6 0m 4
3

An asthetic corner leading to base of Los Indignados headwall with black wall
on RHS. Nice climbing, requires a committed approach, there are now 4 bolts but the lower climbing is still committing above gear and the turf climbing to the anchors is still a long runout.
Take doubles of #3 , #2 , and #1 Camalots, singles down to small blue, and some small wires.
There is now a direct start, called "Pilates" which has 4 bolts. the name is because its short in duration but quite intense, and requires quite specific form to execute. steep and gymnastic. Grade M6 to be confirmed after successive ascents.


  • P1
  • Mixed M6
  • 4

TL TLThug Life, M5 M5 0m
0

After the first pitch of State of the Nation, climb straight up a chimney
above.


  • P1
  • Mixed M5

15 15Any man dies with a clean sword, M6 M6 120m
1.02

This is a pretty full on two pitch route followed by an easy snow climb to
the top of the Telecom Tower. Pitch 1 M6 27m After climbing up the snow slope
above los indignadous move up and left to belay at the base of a double crack
corner. Belay. P1 up the twin cracks starting right, moving left. From the
ledge move back right and around the corner with tricky moves to join the
base of the main chimney. Belay on a small stance under a little roof. P2
6+ 30m move up and right being careful not to fall onto your belayer.
Chimney is a bit loose but provides great challenging climbing. exit via the
overhang with thin feet. Belaying 10m above the roof where the round gets
easier. P3 60m easy snow slope to top of telecom tower. Double set of cams
Green C3 - #4 C4. Single purple c3 single set of nuts.


  • P1
  • Mixed M6
  • 120m
  • Trad

The big chimney and corner system (leftmost) corner system above the snow patch above los indignados direct


NC NCNight Crawlers, M6 M6 0m
0

Start up State of the Nation, where that route turns up the chimney to the
right, take the steep corner going straight up.


  • P1
  • Mixed M6
  • Trad

Images

Comments
Attribution
Material from "REMARKABLES ICE & MIXED FESTIVAL ICE & MIXED GUIDE," 2012.
UUID
 
fd84e2b2-5866-4468-91c9-6e764ec49438