Mt Huxley

The 800m high south face of Mt Huxley presents an imposing sight and was not climbed until 1990. The completion of three new lines on the south face during 1990-93 may attract more attention to the mountain. Mt Huxley has now been climbed from all sides with starting points in the Ahuriri, Hunter, Huxley, and Temple Valleys.
The west face of Mt Huxley is secluded, but once in view it is obvious that the central section is fine rock. The rock is unblemished and of a character that allows even the steeper sections to be climbed with abandon.
The valley was quite enchanting with its blanket of snow, patches of beech forest, and the river with its amazingly clear pools. The mountains are moderately glaciated, offering good training climbs, but also good technical routes up steep rock faces or sharp rock ridges. Mt Huxley rises sheer from the end of the valley, a 2000' rock face, most impressive. There's a challenge for the boys.
Nicholas Shearer, OUTC Antics, 1981.