Type:
Alpine
Description:
A mainly mixed route apart from the first 3-4 pitches which is steep ice. Start at the toe of the south spur up a narrow gully of steep ice for two pitches then take a gully to the left which leads on to the south spur proper. The crux two pitches are at the top, finishing just east of the summit. Ten pitches of grade 4-5 ice. The first ascent party took 17 hours for the complete climb.
Erik Bradshaw climbed a variation on this route in summer conditions with a full tramping pack in two and a half hours. Good positive rock all the way interspersed with gravel ledges.
Pitch(es):
| # | Ewbank | Alpine (Technical) | Alpine (Commitment) | Alpine (Mt Cook) | Aid | Water Ice | Mixed | Boulder (Hueco) | Length | Bolts | Trad |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 5+ | V | 0m | No |
Grade:
V 5+
Quality:
Gone:
0
Length:
0m
Bolts:
0
Natural pro:
0
Ascent:
Al Uren, Phil Penney, Glen Einam October 1990
Erik Bradshaw, March 2013
Route Image:
UUID:
82851cba-ac5b-4fd9-99c2-458dadbd68c1