A mainly mixed route apart from the first 3-4 pitches which is steep ice. Start at the toe of the south spur up a narrow gully of steep ice for two pitches then take a gully to the left which leads on to the south spur proper. The crux two pitches are at the top, finishing just east of the summit. Ten pitches of grade 4-5 ice. The first ascent party took 17 hours for the complete climb. Erik Bradshaw climbed a variation on this route in summer conditions with a full tramping pack in two and a half hours. Good positive rock all the way interspersed with gravel ledges.
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Al Uren, Phil Penney, Glen Einam October 1990
Erik Bradshaw, March 2013