Leaning Mount

(2 routes)

Leaning Mount is on the Huxley Range 30km south of Mt Huxley. It can be accessed in 6-7 hours from the Ahuriri valley. From the carpark near the locked gate in the Ahuriri valley4 km beyond Birchwod Station, cross the eastern part of the Huxley range, and drop down into the Dingle Burn. Follow the Dingle Burn downstream for 2.5 km to a junction with a side stream and walk up that side valley to a campsite near the south face of Leaning Mount.

-44.270534358600, 169.517618818000
G38 321 538
BZ13 221 922
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Waka Jumping 13
wire representing trad
Begin from snowfield near the centre of the south face, angling rightward. Cross a minor snow shute, and climb past the TV slab. Continue up the narrowing ramp to reach the summit ridge. 13 pitches of climbing up to grade 13, but little protection available. Descent by abseil off the waka taua, then over the low summit and down the east ridge.
Ross Cullen, Bill McLeod, December 2002
North East Face 1
Approach from the Dingle Burn branch to the north of Leaning Mount. Meander up scrub and scree slopes heading in the general direction of the peak. The final, short section of the route above the scree could be described as a steep, exposed scramble up thoroughly rotten and unattractive rock. It is straightforward for confident rock climbers but might be uncomfortable for those who are not.
Unknown but climbed by Martin Hawes, Derek Chinn, Mike Perry 2012