Taiaha Pk

The sharp summit pyramid on NorthWest Ridge of McNulty Peak. The route climbs the west face of the main boot-shaped buttress of the outlier. 300m of steady grade 13-14 climbing. Descent by abseiling route.

The route begins in the upper North Huxley and ascends the west ridge onto Peak 2241. Three and a half pitches.

Strike out from the upper section of the Huxley Valley through the dense vegetation, gain the upper slopes and climb a couloir toward the superb summit rock pyramid. A diagonal crack leads across the rockwall towards a boulder field and the summit.

Cross the swing bridge at the entrance to the Huxley Valley and climb through beech forest avoiding major bluffs to reach Paradise Valley. Gain access to the face on the true left, and ascend via a permanent rock and snow couloir in the centre of the face to finish to the west of the summit. Good protection in parts. Descend from the summit towards Boanerges, and via a couloir to reach Paradise Valley again.

A four pitch ice climb through the left side of the lower tier.

"On the right hand edge of the south face, an obvious gully starts from the valley floor and snakes 500 metres up moderately angled terrain, with the odd steeper section, finishing at a spur that leads to the east ridge of John Thomas Peak. The route is sufficiently clear of the hanging glacier to be safe. The receeding and active hanging glacier makes access to the 1983 first ascent line of this face by Smoothy and Thomson a tricky affair to do without considerable risk."

Ascend the snow basin below the east ridge, then traverse onto shattered rock. Descent via the west ridge is on good but steep rock. The overall GT is about grade 4.