Taiaha Pk

(7 routes)

Taiaha Pk is known locally as John Thomas Pk, and in the NZAC Barron–Brewster guidebook as Pk 2241. The sharp summit pyramid is the obvious feature as you approach Monument Hut from the south. The peak can be identified by travellers crossing Omarama Saddle in the morning who look north to the Ohau region.

-43.958000000000, 169.787000000000
H37 522 894
BY14 422 278
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Twoshoes 3+
The sharp summit pyramid on NorthWest Ridge of McNulty Peak. The route climbs the west face of the main boot-shaped buttress of the outlier. 300m of steady grade 13-14 climbing. Descent by abseiling route.
Bill McLeod February 1994
West Ridge 3
The route begins in the upper North Huxley and ascends the west ridge onto Peak 2241. Three and a half pitches.
Rob Battersby, Hamish Dunn March 1994
North West Face 3-
Strike out from the upper section of the Huxley Valley through the dense vegetation, gain the upper slopes and climb a couloir toward the superb summit rock pyramid. A diagonal crack leads across the rockwall towards a boulder field and the summit.
O.Cantwell, PhilCook, Frank Newmarch, R.Smith April 1939
South East Face 4
Cross the swing bridge at the entrance to the Huxley Valley and climb through beech forest avoiding major bluffs to reach Paradise Valley. Gain access to the face on the true left, and ascend via a permanent rock and snow couloir in the centre of the face to finish to the west of the summit. Good protection in parts. Descend from the summit towards Boanerges, and via a couloir to reach Paradise Valley again.
Ron Smoothy, Ellen Smoothy, Roger Thomson January 1983
Paradise Valley
A four pitch ice climb through the left side of the lower tier.
Thomas Evans, Jackson Green, June 2004
I’ve found Cod WI3
"On the right hand edge of the south face, an obvious gully starts from the valley floor and snakes 500 metres up moderately angled terrain, with the odd steeper section, finishing at a spur that leads to the east ridge of John Thomas Peak. The route is sufficiently clear of the hanging glacier to be safe. The receeding and active hanging glacier makes access to the 1983 first ascent line of this face by Smoothy and Thomson a tricky affair to do without considerable risk."
Paul Hersey, Graham Zimmerman, September 2006
East Ridge 4
Ascend the snow basin below the east ridge, then traverse onto shattered rock. Descent via the west ridge is on good but steep rock. The overall GT is about grade 4.
Shelly Graham, Graham Zimmerman Easter 2007


Note this peak may have been named since the BB guide book was produced.