Place info
Port Chalmers Quarry
(11 routes)
A collection of sport routes within the urban area of Port Chalmers. The crags are at the back of a small public garden/ park with a view of the port and the town. Just 10 minutes drive from the centre of Dunedin.
The Chakrata Wall and The Great Escape are protected by bolts of a trustworthy nature (all mid-late 2000s, by Dave Brash). Elevator and Ren, as well as the seperate Stimpy anchor were rebolted in September 2015 (Stimpy rebolting ASAP), but all routes climber's right of TGE are historical in nature, and may not be safely climbable without significant rebolting effort.
- East
Aspect
- 3min
Walk in
- 60m
Altitude
A collection of sport routes within the urban area of Port Chalmers. The crags are at the back of a small public garden/ park with a view of the port and the town. Just 10 minutes drive from the centre of Dunedin.
The Chakrata Wall and The Great Escape are protected by bolts of a trustworthy nature (all mid-late 2000s, by Dave Brash). Elevator and Ren, as well as the seperate Stimpy anchor were rebolted in September 2015 (Stimpy rebolting ASAP), but all routes climber's right of TGE are historical in nature, and may not be safely climbable without significant rebolting effort.
Drive into Port Chalmers from Dunedin. Turn left into Mount Street, then next right into Church Street. Go along Church Street, over the railway crossing and look for the remnants of a quarry, and the Lady Thorn Rhodedendron Dell, on your left.
| Reference | Name | Grade | Quality | Length | Comments | Actions | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
|
15
|
|
4
 |
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| 3 or 4 beginner bolted leads approx grade 13 (left) to 15 (right). | |||||||||||
|
Ev
|
23
|
|
9m
|
3
|
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|
Scamble up R onto the Hauraki Wall. Andy McDonald 1992 |
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|
Rn
|
25
|
|
8m
|
3
|
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|
Start well L with thin technical moves up through 2B, then traverse across to the 3rd B. Andy McDonald 1992 |
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|
Sy
|
19
|
|
8m
|
3
|
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|
Start as far L as you can and head gradually L through 3B, to step R again onto a ledge with a small tree. Climb through the crux into the crux into the rampabove without using the tree or the gully to the L. Contrived?? Andy McDonald 1992 |
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|
GE
|
14 ,14 ,14
|
|
55m
|
20
|
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|
This entertaining little multi pitch climb snakes its way up the cliff seaching out the best climbing to the apex of the quarry. Great beginner route with good views to the Port, the occasional wedding in the garden below, and out to the Peninsula. Can be climbed at night with lights from the Port, and the route makes a good simul-climb. The first few metres of P1 can remain damp several days after rain during winter, but the rest of the route generally dries quickly. Descent - 20m then 30m rap off DBB at top, then mid-station L of the top of P2. Or, scramble up 5m through the trees, hard L through the scrub to pick up a good (exposed) trail leading around the top of the quarry above the Chakrata Wall to the viewing platform.
Marcus Thomas 1996 |
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|
LP
|
26
|
|
8m
|
3
|
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|
Looks impossible. Walk left behind large macrocarpa tree to far end of low overhanging wall. Crank through finger pocks to the arete above. Look for the secret hold out to the left to begin. The ability to perform one arm lock-offs is advantageous. Andy McDonald 1992 |
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|
EB
|
19
|
|
36m
|
6
|
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|
Start up groove near macrocarpa, then L side of the prominant arete. Clip 1st, 3rd & 4th bolts of JP. Jeremy Strang 1987 |
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|
JP
|
19
|
|
36m
|
4
|
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|
Climb the R side of the arete at its steepest point and move on up to the top of the arete. Manky bolts?? Jeremy Strang 1987 |
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|
Vg
|
21
|
|
36m
|
4
|
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|
Climb up the drill hole L of the bolt and dyno for a hidden jug above the second bolt. Then as for JP. Surrepititously climbed by Jeremy Strang before Simon did the 1st ascent. Jeremy Strang 1987 |
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|
RA
|
15
|
|
7m
|
2
|
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A small corner. DBB at top Ross Cullen 1987 |
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|
IE
|
16
|
|
7m
|
1
|
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Climb face onto arete R of RA. Simon Cox 1987 |
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