Port Chalmers Quarry

(11 routes)

A collection of sport routes within the urban area of Port Chalmers. The crags are at the back of a small public garden/ park with a view of the port and the town. Just 10 minutes drive from the centre of Dunedin.

The Chakrata Wall and The Great Escape are protected by bolts of a trustworthy nature (all mid-late 2000s, by Dave Brash). Elevator and Ren, as well as the seperate Stimpy anchor were rebolted in September 2015 (Stimpy rebolting ASAP), but all routes climber's right of TGE are historical in nature, and may not be safely climbable without significant rebolting effort.

Type: 
Crag
Altitude: 
60m
Aspect: 
East
Walk time: 
3min
Access: 

Drive into Port Chalmers from Dunedin. Turn left into Mount Street, then next right into Church Street. Go along Church Street, over the railway crossing and look for the remnants of a quarry, and the Lady Thorn Rhodedendron Dell, on your left.

Lat/Lon: 
-45.812888000000, 170.619993000000
NZMS260: 
I44 249 856
Topo50: 
CE17 151 240
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
Chakrata Wall 15
0
4bolts
3 or 4 beginner bolted leads approx grade 13 (left) to 15 (right).
Ev Elevator 23 9m
1.02
3bolts
Scamble up R onto the Hauraki Wall.
Andy McDonald 1992
Rn Ren 25 8m
0
3bolts
Start well L with thin technical moves up through 2B, then traverse across to the 3rd B.
Andy McDonald 1992
Sy Stimpy 19 8m
0
3bolts
Start as far L as you can and head gradually L through 3B, to step R again onto a ledge with a small tree. Climb through the crux into the crux into the rampabove without using the tree or the gully to the L. Contrived??
Andy McDonald 1992
GE The Great Escape 14 ,14 ,14 55m
1.02
20bolts
This entertaining little multi pitch climb snakes its way up the cliff seaching out the best climbing to the apex of the quarry. Great beginner route with good views to the Port, the occasional wedding in the garden below, and out to the Peninsula. Can be climbed at night with lights from the Port, and the route makes a good simul-climb. The first few metres of P1 can remain damp several days after rain during winter, but the rest of the route generally dries quickly. Descent - 20m then 30m rap off DBB at top, then mid-station L of the top of P2. Or, scramble up 5m through the trees, hard L through the scrub to pick up a good (exposed) trail leading around the top of the quarry above the Chakrata Wall to the viewing platform.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11415m8No
 Start among the bush in the centre of the bowl. Traverse L along the ramp, negotiate a steep step, then R to a slab past a couple of bolts to bolt belay and tree stump.
21415m5No
 Climb up a steep arete, then hard L to DBB. Location of DBB on photo topo is about 4m too high.
31425m7No
 Step L and up through drill hole. Buckets recently chipped into this section to maintain grade consistency. Then tend L to steep headwall which is then turned on the R. Previously grade 18 A0 using side pull on large quarry-era drill hole.
Marcus Thomas 1996
LP The Tree Little Pigs 26 8m
0
3bolts
Looks impossible. Walk left behind large macrocarpa tree to far end of low overhanging wall. Crank through finger pocks to the arete above. Look for the secret hold out to the left to begin. The ability to perform one arm lock-offs is advantageous.
Andy McDonald 1992
EB Easter Blues 19 36m
0
6bolts
Start up groove near macrocarpa, then L side of the prominant arete. Clip 1st, 3rd & 4th bolts of JP.
Jeremy Strang 1987
JP Jitterbug Perfume 19 36m
0
4bolts
Climb the R side of the arete at its steepest point and move on up to the top of the arete. Manky bolts??
Jeremy Strang 1987
Vg Verging on the Rediculous 21 36m
0
4bolts
Climb up the drill hole L of the bolt and dyno for a hidden jug above the second bolt. Then as for JP. Surrepititously climbed by Jeremy Strang before Simon did the 1st ascent.
Jeremy Strang 1987
RA Riotous Assembly 15 7m
0
2bolts
A small corner. DBB at top
Ross Cullen 1987
IE Indecent Exposure 16 7m
0
1bolts
Climb face onto arete R of RA.
Simon Cox 1987
Attribution: 
Dave Brash, Andy McDonald

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