Hoover Heights, as climbers originally named it, is also known as 'Port Chalmers Quarry', or to the public as 'Lady Thorn Dell' (so named in honour of a former Mayoress of Kōpūtai • Port Chalmers). The original climbing name came from the old vacuum cleaner brand, Hoover, in reference to how much cleaning was required to make a route climbable. So be warned!
The cliffs here were shaped by dynamite, creating a unique climbing style compared to the natural crags—with pocks, crimps and plenty of smearing. The easy access and low-angle terrain (complemented by its proximity to great cafés and local craft beer) have made it a venue of choice for instruction groups and beginner climbers for a number of years. Despite its alluring character, the rock is far from bulletproof and tends to constantly shed flakes and pebbles, so a helmet is a must.
Background: Rock climbers are also not the first people to scale these cliffs! In the 1920s to 60s, the cliffs were the site of a bragging competition between traveling seamen, who used ropes (presumably borrowed from vessels) to paint the names of their ships high up on the walls. Many of the names have washed away from years of weathering, but some are still visible if you look closely! The quarry was later used as a dump for shipyard materials before finally being transformed by the Lions Club into the pleasant rhododendron dell it is today.
Please use the tracks and stay off the gardens. Go to Kōputai (Port Chalmers) township if you need the loo—the outhouse below the Escape Wall is used for working parties. There is no fee to enter the Dell, but consider making a donation to the Lions Club in the box on the entrance gate to support ongoing maintenance.
Conditions: These walls are an excellent spot in summer. Many climb here if the weather is not trustworthy enough to drive to the north coast crags, with plan B being refreshments and a bowl of chips in Kōputai • Port Chalmers. Light emitted from the port also makes climbing into the late evening possible. East facing, the crag is quite shaded in winter and may remain damp longer after wet periods.
Climbing Notes: All climbs are sport and serviced with double-bolt anchors. A rack of quickdraws, anchor-building materials and a 60m rope is all you need. A tarpaulin or bucket also comes in handy to keep your rope clean.
Drive into Kōpūtai (Port Chalmers) from Ōtepoti (Dunedin). Turn left onto Mount Street, then right onto Church Street. Go along Church Street, over the railway crossing and continue up the hill. Hoover Heights and parking is on the left.