This right-hand wall was originally bolted by hand with 10mm Terrier bolts in the 80s by keen local developers. The climbs eventually became lost to time, and only a few of the original bolts remain today. In 2023, Allan Cox got busy cleaning with the intention of giving the routes a new life. However, it appears that the rock has changed quite drastically over time and most of the old descriptions or grades no longer match the wall. Thus, new lines were developed. The original route names, developers and descriptions can be found in the Archive sector.
At the entrance to the Dell, take the second track on the right (15m in from the gate). From the end of this track, walk a couple of meters to the base of the cliff and traverse right along its base. After a few meters you will come across the start of a rough track (at the base of Magilla Gorilla) and then about 10m further along, an old knotted climbing rope. This rope ends at the climb I Tawt I Saw a Puddy Tat. Continue along the track to reach the right hand climbs.
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
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10 | 10Magilla Gorilla, 14 | 14 | 17m | 6 | |||
This climb is to the left of the prominent arête and starts down low at the beginning of the track to Cartoon wall. Head up the blocky crack then step onto the face using the magic foot hole (you will see it), pull up onto the slab (crux) and head on up.
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11 | 11Pinky and the Brain, 19 | 19 | 12m | 5 | |||
On the left side of the arete down low is a slab (halfway up Magilla Gorilla but accessed via the track). The big open book slab is Easter Blues Direct. Pinky and the Brain is the next slab 2m left again). World domination awaits – just don’t let your feeble-minded belayer hold you back! Climb to the apex of the slab, then pinch the flake and move right onto the arete using the undercling. Slap up to the block above and climb the sloping ramp, finishing at the anchor for Magilla Gorilla. The climb that keeps on giving (in the nicest possible way).
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12 | 12Easter Blues Direct, 22 | 22 | 17m | 7 | |||
Up the open book slab. The first crux is after clipping the 2nd bolt. Yes, use that crappy little toe hold out right. Mantle onto the ramp. From here the moves are relatively easy, but the scare factor goes up. After the 4th bolt, move left under the roof and around the slight overhang to the ramp above then swing onto the arete (second crux) and up to the anchor, shared with Danger Mouse and Jitterbug Perfume. The original line, Easter Blues (Jeremy Strang, 1987), was named in memory of Grant Crumpton and Donald Hollows, who passed away on Tititea • Mt Aspiring in the Easter of 87. The new bolts take a more direct line, hence the new name.
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13 | 13Samurai Jack, 23 | 23 | 17m | 7 | |||
Climb the open book corner as for Easter Blues to the fourth bolt. Where this line traverses left, tackle the roof directly for some powerful moves past the next two bolts. Rejoins Easter Blues Direct at the last bolt for an easy slab finish to the belay.
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14 | 14Jitterbug Perfume, 21 | 21 | 15m | 5 | |||
Scramble up left, and underneath Danger Mouse to a ledge with a belay bolt. Climbs up the first three bolts via some vertical rails with techy layaways. Mantle past the third bolt for an easy groove to finish.
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15 | 15Danger Mouse, 16 | 16 | 14m | 6 | |||
Either belay from the track or solo up to the tree and belay from there. Climb the twin crack through the roof (easier than it looks). Then head up the slab above, varying left when your feet are level with the 4th bolt. Finish at the break in the prominent arête two thirds of the way up.
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16 | 16I Tawt I Saw A Puddy Tat, 15 | 15 | 8m | 4 | |||
To the left of the large graffitied block is a crack/corner that is above a smaller block with an old blue sling around it. Some nice bridging moves to a small ledge on top of the big block where there is a DBB.
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17 | 17Muttley's Delight, 18 | 18 | 17m | 6 | |||
Possibly the nicest of the climbs on this part of the wall, with some lovely delicate moves.
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18 | 18Vixey LaFox, 19 | 19 | 17m | 5 | |||
Straight up the face. Crux is a delicate move after clipping the first bolt, then it gets easier. After the fourth bolt it runs out (to keep it interesting) and then clips the last bolt of Muttley’s Delight before finishing at the shared belay.
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19 | 19Wile E. Coyote, 16 | 16 | 17m | 5 | |||
Up the small ramp and onto the face. Easier going slightly right at crux 4th bolt. Finish up the small arête/block.
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20 | 20Dick Dastardly, 17 | 17 | 12m | 5 | |||
Climb up the dynamite drill hole, then pull onto the slab and finish using the last bolts and DBB of Roadrunner.
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21 | 21Roadrunner, 13 | 13 | 12m | 5 | |||
A nice beginners lead slab. The crux is around the second bolt.
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