Steeple Pk | ClimbNZ

Type

Altitude

2207m

Part of

(L to R) Love Me Love My Zimmerframe, Wandering Flob, Zoe and Weta Prowl.
From the summit an easy decent is down the South ridge to the col between Steeple Peak and Point 2200, before following scree slopes back to camp.

Walktime

4.5 or 8 houurs

Lat/lon

POINT (169.76973776 -44.09365469)

Topo50

BZ14 414 127

Approach

Access to the East face climbs is via either the South Temple valley or North Temple valley and Gun Sight Pass. Under the East face there is a good bivy / camp site on a shelf at the 1450m contour on the true left of the valley with water a few minutes walk away.
Alternatively access via North Temple Stream and a col between Bruce and Steeple peaks is much faster. See Bruce Peak for details. https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/barrier-range/bruce-pk

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Quality
	North Face, 2+	2+	0m	0
From the mid North Temple Stream GR H38, 535752, approach the peak through the beech forest, then ascend across the east face to reach the gully between Steeple Peak and Peak 2200m. Climb the rock (about grade 12) to the summit. Easier access is from the mid South Temple. P1 Alpine (Mt Cook) 2+
Red	RedLove me love my Zimmerframe, 3+	3+	0m	0
Twelve pitches on northern outlier of Steeple Peak. Begin at the middle of the slab to the right of small pointy knoll near the bottom. Straight up for two pitches through two awkward corner with not much gear, then rising leftwards traverse to avoid the overhangs till near the ledge at half height. From there easier scrambling, grade 12 ish and a small section of grade 14 at the top. Connects with Zoe and Weta Prowl in upper part. Some pitons used for protection. Twelve pitches with cruxes at grade 15. P1 Alpine (Mt Cook) 3+
Green	GreenWandering Flob			0
A six pitch route in February, to the right of Love me love my Zimmerframe. grade 13-16, pitches varying from 15-60 m, has fair to good rock quality and protection. Descent was via two 60m abseils. The climb was repeated the next day by Derek Billings and Dave Ryan.
Yellow	YellowZoe Alpine, 3+	3+	0m	0
On north side of Steeple Peak outlier. Seven pitches left of Weta Prowl. Crux 17, mostly 12-14 climbing on great red greywacke with good protection. P1 Alpine (Mt Cook) 3+
Blue	BlueWeta Prowl, 14,3+	14,3+	0m	0
On the centre of the shorter right hand, west facing wall. From its low point, scramble up and left for about 60m to a scree shelf. Climb the slab for 6 or more pitches between the two rock flanges at up to grade 14. The last pitch places you on a ridge where a short final pitch gets you over the first and most difficult of the ridges obstacles. The ridge is then followed for about 150m as a difficult scramble to the summit. 300m height gain, plenty of protection on excellent rock. P1 14 Alpine (Mt Cook) 3+
	Dry As A Bone, 15	15	0m	0
To the right of Weta Prowl, finishing up a flake tucked up against the final steep buttress, to join Weta Prowl near the top. P1 15
	South Ridge, 1+	1+	0m	0
From the col between Steeple Peak and Point 2200, follow the ridge as an easy scramble on fractured rock to the summit. P1 Alpine (Mt Cook) 1+
	Weta Hotel, 15	15	145m	0
Starting at the base of the west ridge of the Steeple pk outlier, Climb three pitches with ample belay ledges and descend the scree slope. The sunny aspect makes this a good option when other routes in the area are not in condition. Take care of some loose flakes. P1 14 50m Trad Up and right around the bulge. Scramble 10m up to the next pitch. P2 15 45m Trad Climb center right of the slab. P3 14 50m Trad Left hand side of the arete.

Comments

This place appears in

Ōhau Landsborough Alps: a guide for mountaineers, 2021

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UUID

38443b2a-99d0-4a0c-85e4-315894b52db1