
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Quality | Bolts | Gone | Natural pro | Link to edit content | ||
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North Face | 2 |
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The most obvious ascent route is up the north rib, following a line just east
of the prominent buttress which runs down toward the North Temple Stream.
Ross Cullen, March 1989
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From Gunsight Pass | 3 |
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Angle right up an exposed bench to gain the west ridge then cheval along the
ridge until easier ground leads to the summit.
First ascent unknown
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Kea Arete | 3 | 400m |
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The obvious arete/spur between Gunsight Pass and Butterfly Buttress. 7
pitches (60m rope) on good quality rock. Crux (grade 14) on pitch 2,
otherwise consistent grade 10-12 climbing. Any tricky bits go slightly left
of arete.
Kea Arete (red), Butterfly Buttress (yellow)
Dagmar Linder, Colin Magee, Matt Quirke, 24 Nov 2004
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Rocky Road | 3 17 | 480m |
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Pitch1: start on the right hand side of the snow slope, around 6 meters
traverse then straight up to the face. Grade around 15. length: 60 meters
Pitch2: Keep straight up on the face. Grade around 16. length 60 meters
Pitch3: keep following the crag and keep yourself on the face. Grade 16.
Length 60 meters.
pitch4: still keep climbing on the face, little bit slab. Grade 17. length 60
meters.
pitch5: start traverse to the ridge it's very short the length around 25
meters. Grade 15
Pitch6: keep straight up around 10-15 meters then keep climbing on the left.
Grade:17. Length 60 meters
Last 200 meters we decided short roping plus ruining belay. grade around
13-14.
Tony Burnell and
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Butterfly Buttress | 3+ |
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Ascend the prominent south western buttress from its lowest point in the mid
South Temple. Sustained grade12-14 climbing. 500m height gain on excellent
quality rock. Descent via Bruce -Steeple Col.
Ross Cullen, Geoff Gabites, Bill McLeod, February 2002
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Like Moths to a Flame | 17 |
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3 | ||||||
Starts up S-shaped crack on buttress to the right of Butterfly Buttress.
Follow crack (3 pitches, 17, 16,14)to crest of buttress - easy ground (10-12)
to notch to cross Butterfly Buttress. Route wanders up easy ground (10-12) to
snowfield in middle of face between Kea and Butterfly, then up 17 corner and
onto easier ground to summit. About 12 pitches due to wandering nature of
route. About 400m of climbing. Surprisingly decent rock.
Graham Johnson and Allan Brent 28/12/14
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