A striking peak, especially when seen from Cupola Basin Hut, with a variety of routes. An excellent spring and early summer traverse is to climb the Hopeless Couloir and descend the South West Ridge or the Hopeless Creek route to Hopeless Hut. Reputedly named by an early survey party with a poor attitude.
Cupola Basin Routes A marked track to Cupola Basin Hut leaves the Travers Valley at a small clearing. At 1370m and with spectacular views nearby the hut is well sited for climbs.
Hopeless Creek Routes A marked track leads from the Travers Valley to Hopeless Hut. A popular trip is to continue up the valley and across Sunset Saddle to Lake Angelus. This route angles up scree (the slopes above catch the sun early, beware of avalanches or ice cannonballs) to a ledge, which gains the crest of the cirque headwall. Continue past tarns to Sunset Saddle (see Sunset Saddle Route Mt Angelus).
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
A | Hopeless Creek Route | 2 | ||||
B | East Ridge | 1 | ||||
C | North East Ridge | 1 | ||||
North Ridge | 1 | |||||
D | South West Ridge | 2 | ||||
E | Hopeless Couloir | 3 | ||||
F | South East Buttress | 1 |
Craig Potton.
Davi Jewell.