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A difficult route with a huge gash, a steep face and sharp pinnacles to overcome. The ridge is easily gained from a tributary creek, 1km upstream from Hopeless Hut. Pleasant scrambling over minor peaks is halted at a deep gash. A difficult descent down a steep, smooth and exposed ledge reaches the gully on the Sabine side, below the gash, then from 30m below the gash climb mainly firm rock back to the ridge. An alternative is to descend from just north of the gash into the top of a large basin on the Hopeless Creek side, climb up to the gash and then cross over to climb rock on the Sabine side. Further along the ridge, a second, easier notch is crossed, and up to the top of the North East Ridge. Then follow the North East Ridge route to the summit.
John Lawrence, David Witham, September 1966