- P1
- Alpine (Technical) 2
Five minutes below Hopeless Hut cross to the true right of a side stream. Climb a steep cairned track on the true right to avoid a deep gorge. Beware of avalanche danger in spring (the route follows an obvious avalanche path). When the stream levels, climb through scrub to a series of narrow ribs (look for cairns here) which lead to an often snow-filled basin (map ref. M30/889178). Head south-west to a col in the east ridge (overlooking the Hopeless Couloir) then climb a gut angling to the Travers Range. In summer or in icy conditions, a safer alternative is to climb from the basin to the outlier peak to the north. A short scramble leads south to the summit. Mostly easy scrambling to the basin, but beware of loose rock (in summer) or winter ice in the gut above. A good descent route.