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West Ridge

First ascent
Les Cleveland, Neil Hamilton, John Lange, Jan 1951 (descended during the first Tasman-Torres Traverse).
First ascent possibly by members of NZMGA Guides course, Dec 1986
FWA: Gavin Lang, Ruari MacFarlane
Located on
Topo ref

One of the great New Zealand classics, involving remoteness, exposure, and absolutely engaging ridge climbing. The normal
route traverses Torres Peak, making this a long, committing route.
Above Torres-Tasman Col, use the rock ribs on the Balfour Glacier side, and then follow the narrow arête upward. The arête gradually broadens out towards the summit of Tasman. Knowing this takes the sting out of the commitment of the route. If you need to escape from low down on the ridge, the best option is probably back up to the summit of Torres, and then down the North East Couloir. Just make sure you can descend the Abel Janszoon Glacier, as it sometimes gets cut off with large crevasses.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 4
  • Alpine (Commitment) V