Skip to main content

Mt Hicks

Type
Altitude
3198m
Part of

First ascended by Alex Graham, Henry Newton, R S Low, 1906. Their route via the west ridge has largely fallen away.

Lat/lon
-43.58747855,170.12929916, NZ Topo Map
Topo50
BX15 683 699
Add Place Add Route

Places

Type Name Alert
Face South Face
Face North Face

Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
 North Rib, VI,4,15 VI,4,15 0m
0

Also known as the Biscuit Tin route. From the access route over Harper Saddle to the upper La Perouse névé, ascend good rock on the face to the right of the rib, following the line of least resistance onto the rib itself. The rib steepens towards the top (crux 14/15). Then follow a flattening ridge for 250m to join the top of the couloir on the Curtain Route.


  • P1
  • 15
  • Alpine (Commitment) VI
  • Alpine (Technical) 4
  • Trad

 Red Wall, 4 4 0m
0

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 4

An eight pitch route up red rock to the left of couloir on the Curtain Route


3.37 3.37Curtain Route (Standard Route), 3 3 0m
0

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3

From Harper Saddle ascend the snowslope diagonally to the gap in the west ridge (beware rockfall from the Curtain). Continue up the ridge for 150m before crossing left to a major couloir. Ascend the couloir which comes out about 100m down the ridge from the final 40m rock wall below the summit. Descending: Five abseils (bolt anchors) from the top of the couloir followed by an easy traverse across a rock ridge onto the slopes below the Curtain allows easy access to Harper Saddle. Do not rappel down the Curtain.


 Divide Route, 3+ 3+ 0m
0

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3+

From Harper Saddle head up on snow to the left of the Divide for a short distance before crossing onto the edge of the South Face. Follow up ledges and bluffs overlooking the South Face until the Divide flattens out, then follow the ridge up the final 40m wall to the summit.


Comments
Attribution
Alex Palman
UUID
 
2329b918-97c9-4ccd-b796-0292b17e01ef