Mt Elie de Beaumont

‘Elie’ is the throne that elegantly resides over the cluster of peaks at the head of the Tasman. Whether on skis or on foot, it is an entertaining outing, which culminates in a ballroom-sized summit plateau.
Head up the Anna Glacier (which is frequently complicated by crevasses) usually keeping close under Mt Walter. Then ascend slopes onto the col between Mt Walter and Mt Elie de Beaumont (the Elie-Walter col). Follow a snow ridge, which is often interspersed with firm, blue ice sections from the col up to the summit.
Alternatively, from the lower glacier, continue weaving directly up through the glacier if crevasses allow. From here the summit can be reached from either ridgeline.
If the lower Anna is cut off, ascend to Divers Col, traverse over Mt Walter and descend to the Elie-Walter col – a much more serious proposition (see Routes 5.37 and 5.42).

From Lendenfeld Saddle climb the sharp and undulating ridge onto the upper Anna Plateau and on to the summit. This would be an interesting way to climb Elie when there’s plenty of snow to cover the rotten rock.

From the Whymper Glacier, ascend the prominent spur leading onto the upper part of the Maximilian Ridge. The spur becomes steeper and more difficult towards the top, and the rock is not particularly good. The first ascent was done in deep soft snow.

History, a spectacular position, and a feeling of commitment make this a special route. From the Burton Glacier, gain the ridge via a couloir south of Roderick Peak. Bypass the pinnacles on the lower ridge by using the névé of the Burton Glacier, then head up over a prominent step, along a level section, and up 190m of mixed ground to the Anna Plateau under the summit.
The first ascent party approached the ridge from the Tasman Glacier via Tasman Saddle, Whymper Saddle, and Callery Saddle, and descended to the Elie-Walter Col. Half the party then traversed Walter to walk out via the Tasman Glacier, while the other two members descended to the Times and Spencer Glaciers and returned to the Burton to retrieve a fifth party member, Bill Beavan (who had waited in camp with chicken pox). That group then walked out via the Tatare Route.

From the Burton Glacier, gain the ridge via a couloir south of Roderick Peak, and stick to the crest the entire way instead of using the Burton névé to avoid obstacles.

From the lower Burton Glacier, gain the Maximilian Ridge via a couloir south of Roderick Peak and sidle into the upper névé of the Burton Glacier. Ascend left onto the crest of the spur. Mixed climbing leads onto an arête and snow slopes leading to the summit.

Head up the avalanche chute to the left of the Central Spur, then move left onto a snow and rock rib, which turns into an ice arête before reaching the crux icecliffs. These may vary from season to season. Finish between the west and main peaks.

An elegant and classic route. Gain the foot of the spur from the left via a couple of tricky rock pitches. Steep rock scrambling and moderately steep snow lead to the upper icecliffs, which usually provide a difficult crux. Continue on to the main summit.

Climb up the broad face onto the lower shoulder of Mt Elie de Beaumont, on the ridge above the Elie-Walter col. In winter this is an all-snow route. In summer, the lower section of the climb is on rock, which may be more difficult.