Mt Dampier Rakiroa

(9 routes)

New Zealand's third highest peak, and the second highest point on the Main Divide.

Type: 
Mountain
Altitude: 
3440m
Lat/Lon: 
-43.589449300000, 170.139934500000
NZMS260: 
H36 791 314
Topo50: 
BX15 691 697
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
Traverse from Hicks 4-
0
Traverse from Hicks via the ridge avoiding two prominent towers on whichever side is best in prevailing conditions. Then go up the ridge to a schrund. From here continue up steep snow, through rocks, to the summit. It is also possible to cross the North Face to the North Ridge and then up to the summit.
Syd Brookes, Jack Cox, Marjorie Edgar-Jones, Jan 1938.
Hicks/Dampier Couloir 4-
1.02
From the Sheila Glacier ascend the right diagonal couloir onto the upper Hicks/Dampier ridge. About 2/3rds up the couloir it is possible to break left and follow an ice slope to the ridge line that leads to Hicks.
D Waugh, S Sweeney, Jan 1972.
Fantini/Dignan 5
0
Follow ice gullies left of the Maori Route which ultimately arrive on the Hicks/Dampier Ridge. This route is mostly out of the icecliff fall-line.
John Fantini, Tony Dignan, Jan 1987.
Maori Route 5
0
Ascend the gully in the centre of the face and connect with a snow ramp leading left. Then climb steep ice on the left edge of the icecliff. The route is threatened by falling ice.
Nic Kagan, Mark Whetu, Feb 1983.
Green Saddle Route 3+
0
From the upper Sheila Glacier head up the rib to the left of Fyfe’s Gut - the narrow couloir directly below the saddle. It is possible to climb Fyfe’s Gut but watch for stonefall. The route comes out above Green Saddle. Ascend rubbishy rock to the summit. A variant near the top involves moving left into a narrow ice couloir which leads to the summit ridge (An alternative route crosses above the icecliffs to the Hicks/Dampier. H P Barcham, J B Waterhouse, Jan 1955.
Jack Clarke, Tom Fyfe, George Graham (when they climbed Aoraki/Mt Cook).
North West Flank 3+
0
Start up an avalanche chute to the north of a large diamond buttress of rock below the summit. Move right to gain the edge of the buttress and then up a snow rib above. Traverse across a large snowfield and up to the major schrund below the final wall of Dampier. Move either left or right (the easiest way) to reach the Divide and then via the ridge to the summit. The normal descent route from Dampier lies down into the Grand Plateau, via the south ridge
Gordon Hasell, E R B Graham, T A Nuttall, Jan 1957.
South Ridge 3
0
Gained from the upper Linda Glacier either via the snowslope to Green Saddle or up a rib on the right. Thence up a steep rotten ridge. This route is possibly the best descent route off Dampier.
Freda Du Faur, Peter Graham, C Milne, Mar 1912.
East Face 3+
0
From the Linda Glacier it is possible to head up various routes on sound rock to arrive either on the south ridge or near the summit. There are also numerous interesting ice variants on the East Face.
Syd Brookes, Jack Cox, Marjorie Edgar-Jones, Jan 1938.
North Ridge, via Mt Vancouver 3+
0
Follow the ridge to a prominent rock step, which can be climbed via a hidden gully on the eastern side. Climbers wishing to avoid this ridge can traverse across the North Face to the Hicks-Dampier Ridge. See Mt Vancouver.
Bert Barley, J Forsyth, Mar 1950.
Attribution: 
Alex Palman

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