Southern Alps Ka Tiritiri O Te Moana


Descent Route. North off the peak back to the Malcolm Glacier.

J35 329 652
BW18 229 036
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
3 14
One or more images in route detail.
  This climb was inspired by photographs taken by Ebenezer Teichelmann in 1911. Best approached from Heim Plateau, via the col between Malcolm and Hidden Peaks that leads down to the Malcolm Glacier. A more difficult approach exists via Rangitata Col and the col west of Malcolm Peak, descending snow gullies and rock to the remains of Malcolm Glacier. The 500-metre climb is on good rock slabs with a crack providing the crux.

Guy McKinnon March 2006

  From Rangitata Col continue along the Divide, eventually reaching the rocky buttresses of the South West Ridge. The climbing is straightforward on good rock.

Andy Anderson, Bruce Turner, Jack Hayes (descended), February 1934

  From Lambert Col via the upper Frances Glacier and Main Divide To avoid the gut directly below Lambert Col, sidle south onto a snow shoulder then sidle northeast back to the Frances Glacier. At 2000m, a significant crevasse can be challenging to cross. Continue up to Malcolm Col then SE, where there are smaller crevasses to the Main Divide under pt 2283m. Follow the Divide along with some easy rockclimbing involved near pt 2276m. From a patch of gravel low on the SW ridge, climb diagonally across the western face towards the NW arete. An easy walk on the ridge completes the climb.

Ebenezer Teichelmann, Peter Graham, Jack Clarke (from the Lord River), February 1911

  Ascend snowslopes under Hidden Peak to the col south of pt 2248m. There are various rock climbing possibilities on reasonably good greywacke up a headwall to reach the North arete. The easiest approach is to access the shallow gully at J35 329656 between two minor ribs and follow that up. Sometimes there are snow patches in this gully and sometimes it is bare rock. The north arete is then an easy scramble to the top
  From Heim Plateau, cross to the head of the Malcolm Glacier. Traverse round to a small glacier draining the North East Ridge. Climb the glacier and follow the ridge to the summit.

H W (Sandy) Cormack, Lloyd Wilson, January 1933

  From Heim Plateau, traverse south-west to meet the foot of the East Buttress. Climb steep rock and a snow arĂȘte to the summit.

Stan Conway, Alan Barnes, Syd Brookes, September 1937

  This route is immediately south of the East Buttress and is reached via a traverse from McCoy Col to the col linking the glacier basin at the head of the Lyell Glacier with Heim Plateau. At the start of the route, bypass a 15-metre buttress via a steep gully on the left, and head diagonally across to a well-defined rib which tops the buttress. Follow the rib on loose rock to the summit ridge and eventually join the East Buttress route from Heim Plateau.

Ambrose Banfield, Arthur Lees, Bruce Banfield, December 1939

  From the Heim Plateau, climb a steep snow face to join the East Buttress just below the summit. Snowboard descents.

Ryan Nicol, Yossi Jagger Nov 2015

Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club
This place appears in: 
100 Peaks
The Canterbury Westland Alps: a climbing and transalpine guide
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