West Face

(2 routes)

Classic climbs. Many variations exist on the face. The far left buttress, the gully between the buttresses, and a narrow gully right of the Right Buttress have all been climbed. The most prominent routes are:

Face (Alpine)
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
11.67 Left Buttress III 3+ 3+ 10
From the névé, 200m of pleasant scrambling on good rock (crux 10), followed by 40-degree snow slopes and final exit gullies onto the South Summit. Superb.
Jim Jolly, John Stanton, Dec 1969.
11.68 Right Buttress III 4 4- 12
This route has excellent rock climbing. It’s best to follow a weakness on the right side (crux 12), although the centre of the buttress has been used (crux 15). Follow the snow slope to exit onto the South Summit. In 1967, this route was a major psychological breakthrough in face climbing and was heralded as a classic.
John Andrews, Graeme Dingle, Peter Gough, George Harris, Murray Jones, Dec 1967.
Alex Palman