Where it all began—a classic and highly recommended climb. Follow the narrow couloir that gradually widens and meets the central arête. Continue up, traverse right into the upper Central Gully just above the crux in that line, and on to the summit. The Left Hand Gully is quite a bit easier than the Central Gully, being less steep overall. Remember that in 1968 when the first ascent was made, they still climbed ‘in balance,’ using straight picks so that you had to hold the shaft of the axe out from the ice to prevent the pick popping out. Short ropes, pitons, primitive ice protection—an amazing first ascent.
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Follow the narrow couloir that gradually widens and meets the central arête. Continue up and traverse into the upper Central Couloir and up to the summit. A classic and highly recommended climb.
IV 4 5-
George Harris, Murray Jones, Dec 1968.
Winter full LH Gully, Stu Allan, Steve Dawson, Rick Harrison, Ted Pearson, Aug 1972