|Reference||Title||Grade||Length||Quality||Bolts||Gone||Natural pro||Link to edit content|
|The Charismatic Movement Marketing Council||19,12,17,18,20,20,23,19,20,15,16,15||404m||
The face on the truncated spur on the true left, seen from the tunnel portal. Access to the base of the wall is difficult and thickly vegetated, but the quality of the rock on the upper walls is well worth the adventure. 14 pitches. Solid climbing around grade 20; some bolts and fixed gear. A possible bivvy ledge can be found at the top of the 4th pitch. The route was originally climbed over three weeks and involves a tricky approach from the Milford Road. Haul up on tussock trending right, traversing right 100m below the wall to a flat-looking area with a few trees. A difficult and exposed section of cliff trends up and right to the start of the technical climbing. Paul Rogers and Gareth Sharp abseiled down the line and climbed the top six or so pitches, placing belay anchors. Paul placed a bolt on lead through the crux section, swearing: 'those f*ckers have sand-bagged me...' Descent: nine or ten abseils. Pitches five and six would be difficult to retreat from without fixed lines but not impossible. Walking out to Homer via the ridge to Moir would be the best and safest option.
Gwilym Griffith-Jones, Daniel Meecham, February 1994
D40 092 944
CB08 991 326