Pt 1655

Reference

Title

Grade

Length

Quality

Bolts

Gone

Natural pro

Link to edit content

The Charismatic Movement Marketing Council

19,12,17,18,20,20,23,19,20,15,16,15

404m

The face on the truncated spur on the true left, seen from the tunnel portal. Access to the base of the wall is difficult and thickly vegetated, but the quality of the rock on the upper walls is well worth the adventure. 14 pitches. Solid climbing around grade 20; some bolts and fixed gear. A possible bivvy ledge can be found at the top of the 4th pitch. The route was originally climbed over three weeks and involves a tricky approach from the Milford Road. Haul up on tussock trending right, traversing right 100m below the wall to a flat-looking area with a few trees. A difficult and exposed section of cliff trends up and right to the start of the technical climbing. Paul Rogers and Gareth Sharp abseiled down the line and climbed the top six or so pitches, placing belay anchors. Paul placed a bolt on lead through the crux section, swearing: 'those f*ckers have sand-bagged me...' Descent: nine or ten abseils. Pitches five and six would be difficult to retreat from without fixed lines but not impossible. Walking out to Homer via the ridge to Moir would be the best and safest option.

#	Ewbank	Length	Trad
1	19	50m	Yes
	From start flake climb straight up and through a short steep corner, moving right to belay in bottom of white left-facing corner.
2	12	30m	Yes
	Follow white leaning corner to peg belay.
3	17	30m	Yes
	Straight up obvious weakness then traverse right across slabs to bolt belay.
4	18	52m	Yes
	Traverse right across slabby wall; follow shallow left-facing groove into a steep corner. Continue up a few steps for belay on Privet Hedge Ledge. The pitch was split due to rope drag. Privet Hedge Ledge: Spacious seating for two with gear. Stunning views, sheltered from space junk, ample protection in flake above.
5	20	35m	Yes
	Traverse right to a shallow left-facing open-book corner with small roof. Deviousness necessary to protect startling blank traverse low down. Finish on bolt belay.
6	20	25m	Yes
	Up groove two metres right of belay then step left through steep ground to open corner.
7	23	45m	Yes
	Up groove above belay onto wall: good gear in crack. Traverse right past bolt (crux) to mantle ledge. Continue up wall on positive ledges to more good gear and fixed peg. A small tensioned pendulum will get you past the crux at 21 / A0.
8	19	12m	Yes
	Up arête to left of corner, then follow groove to a small slab and bolt belay.
9	20	30m	Yes
	Traverse left under roof thing to where it is breached by a weakness. Up then right to belay under overlap about seven metres above last belay.
10	15	45m	Yes
	A0, Follow dirty wet right-tending seam with a few aid moves. Belay as high on the easy ramp as possible.
11	16	25m	Yes
	Move out left from roof then up broken slabs to belay under gully things.
12	15	25m	Yes
	Climb right of roofs to grass, sun, places to sit and walk. Belay from rap bolt.

Gwilym Griffith-Jones, Daniel Meecham, February 1994

This place appears in

The Darran Mountains: an alpine and rock climbing guide

2005

(1 route)

This place appears in