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Wild Dykes

Grade
23
Length
453m
8
Natural pro required
Quality
2.01
First ascent
Llewellyn Murdoch, Daniel Joll, February 2022

650m, 24 pitches, 23
Rack 10-12 draws , single set nuts, single cams .2,2,3 doubles .3-1.
Established ground up over 3.5 days of climbing and five days total on the wall. The route can be rapped with a single 60m rope.
Approach via the first 7 pitches of Uprising.
Once reaching the upper wall move right past uprising along the ledge to a fixed rope. At the base of the route there are singular bivy spots for 3 people. A 20L water bucket is in place 2m above the ring bolt of the fixed line on a small ledge.


  • P1
  • 21
  • 30m
  • 3
  • Trad

Start on easy slab to a high first bolt head then up via small overhanging nose on trad to bolt on slab. Reach high to jug rail stepping right then up crack to belay. 3 bolts and trad


  • P2
  • 20
  • 30m
  • 2
  • Trad

Step left off belay to a good cam then up and right following jugs on the dyke. 2 bolts and right traverse to anchor.


  • P3
  • 19
  • 30m
  • 4
  • Trad

Climb straight up past 4 bolts to a tricky move to a jug. After the forth bolt once standing on the face move left and follow an easy crack on the edge of the white dyke up to belay From there easy trad to anchor.


  • P4
  • 18
  • 25m
  • 1
  • Trad

Climb directly above the belay aiming for a good jug on the face right of the arete ( #2 cam fits in here. ) Follow finger crack right of jug up face to a bolt then easy run out up and left to anchor on ledge. Junction of Charismatic Marketing Movement.


  • P5
  • 20
  • 30m
  • 5
  • Trad

Climb up and right of belay to bolt. At second bolt climb carefully past hollow flakes. 5 bolts plus gear


  • P6
  • 15
  • 30m
  • 1
  • Trad

Climb up and right following the clean slab to a bolt and friction move below the belay on a large ledge. Attention when rapping this pitch. Rope stretching 30m rap. Bivy Ledge: 2 x 20L water buckets in position. Possible single bivy platforms for 2-3 people. 1 person at the belay and 1-2 people 15m below on a small ledge.


  • P7
  • 17
  • 18m
  • 2
  • Trad

Move up and right past two bolts to a hidden corner. Continue up this corner on trad to a ledge 120cm long slings at base of corner to avoid rope drag.


  • P8
  • 22
  • 30m
  • 7
  • Trad

Up and right past two bolts and hard moves under a small roof. Then up past gear and 5 more bolts to belay


  • P9
  • 20
  • 25m
  • 8
  • Trad

Climb up and left off belay. Past 3 bolts to crux. Then follow jugs through overlap.


  • P10
  • 18
  • 25m
  • 2
  • Trad

Head right on ramp for 10m the up left facing corner. Look for bolt out right. Hand traverse out right to easy groove and belay.


  • P11
  • 20
  • 25m
  • 4
  • Trad

Head left off belay down low. Up past two bolts on wild prow. Join the right tending ramp with gear for 10 m and then up left past bolt and up. To easy left traverse To belay. On thé ramp if you look up and right you see some of the bolts from the unfinished rap bolted line to the right of the route. Don’t head up and right to the far bolt at the end of the ramp. The pitch heads up and back left to finish in the wet corner directly above the belay of pitch 9. The rap line goes down this corner. 25m rap straight down corner, then 20m rap to reach belay of pitch 9.


  • P12
  • 23
  • 27m
  • 4
  • Trad

Single rack + 2x 0.75&1. Climb up hollow flake( be careful) past two bolts. Hard mantle and face above. Climb middle clean crack up and left to jugs at the lip. Up 5m to stance belay. Avoid chossy crack and blocks on the right.


  • P13
  • 21
  • 28m
  • 3
  • Trad

Single rack. Climb face above belay.then up right trending ramp for 5m. Head up. Place a # 1 then layback up the face past 2 bolts.


  • P14
  • 21
  • 28m
  • 5
  • Trad

Single rack to #3. Climb out left past dyke. Up slab past 3 bolts. At the 4th bolt stand up and go right up seam/ dyke. Step low at last bolt then up on jugs.


  • P15
  • 17
  • 27m
  • 5
  • Trad

Leave belay to the right and up ramp. Drift slowly right on slabs and overlaps. Wild Dykes joins the unfinished rap bolted project at the last bolt of this pitch. The final two pitches are shared with this route.


  • P16
  • 16
  • 20m
  • 3
  • Trad

Up slab and onto big flake. At top of flake straight up the face. Belay on the big ledge below the finger crack.


  • P17
  • 16
  • 25m
  • Trad

Climb splitter fingers to the summit.


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UUID
 
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