|#||Ewbank||Alpine (Technical)||Alpine (Commitment)||Alpine (Mt Cook)||Aid||Water Ice||Mixed||Boulder (Hueco)||Length||Bolts||Trad|
Start 150 metres right of the Bowen Allan Corner. Access via a good ledge slightly further right. Bolts and natural pro. It’s possible to belay at the seventh bolt, with a cam, to reduce drag and increase visibility.
Follow the bolts left, then back right.
Bolts to a steep section, then some natural pro.
Some natural pro.
Climb 15 metres to where a dyke leads right to the top of the Mates Little Brother, or continue up to a belay station.
The original topo is attached, click on Lucky Strike. A quality route, well equipped with bolts, climbing the buttress on the right-hand side of the Mate. Seven pitches (280m), plus an optional further pitch to the ridge and a scramble to the summit. Take 2 x 50m ropes, a small rack of medium wires, cams to hand size and a dozen quickdraws. Abseil descent is best.
18 , 18 , 18 , 19 , 20 , 20 , 13
From topo by Nick Cradock.
Murray Ball, Nick Cradock, David Shotwell, February 2010