West Face

(10 routes)

The following climbs lie in the central area of Moir’s Mate and use either the initial pitches of the Bowen Allan Corner or corners further right to gain some broken ledges which signal the start of these routes.

Type: 
Face (Alpine)
Aspect: 
West
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
11 Central Line 18
0
wire representing trad
Move left beyond the broken ledges before straightening. Continue up the left side of the headwall; the crux pitch is an off-width below the overhangs, then right past the roofs finishing with an excellent pitch up the split headwall crack.
Murray Jones, Keith Nannery, Jan 1969.
Moir's Mate IV WI4
0
Climb the layback first pitch of the Central Route then trend up and right to finish via the top of the Fantini Coradine. "The climbing was not all that hard but required quite a lot of care here and there due to cold hands and little icy bits. For most of the climb protection was about the same as summer...used a couple of pegs in this pre-Friends era. On the top couple of pitches a Southerly front hit us, these pitches were dangerous, though not hard they iced quickly and there was no pro, no belays and the climbing became a bit subtle. Judy actually untied from the rope while I led the last pitch!" Merv English
Merv English, Judith Terpstra, 1974.
12 English Fearnley Hudson 20
0
wire representing trad
Start as for the Central Line, but turns right under the overhangs which cut the top slabs then up a steep fingery crack in the overhanging wall, crux 20. Continue up V groove to top.
Merv English, Dave Fearnley, Calum Hudson, 1983.
13 Fantini Coradine 17
0
wire representing trad
Starting at the broken ledges, traverse right into a corner system which leads to a delicate left slanting slab. Climb the slab (crux) then a 20 metre abseil down and left before climbing into a gully towards the prominent overhang. Move out right below the overhang then to the summit.
Paul Coradine, John Fantini, 1970.
14 Orthopod 18
0
From the skyhook move, on the Fantini Coradine line. Up and right two rope-lengths.
Robin McNeill, Hugh Van Noorden, 1985.
15 Red Zinger 19
0
wire representing trad
A direct finishe above the skyhook move on the Fantini Coradine line
Neal Mathieson, Hugh Widdowson, 1988.
Pipe Dreams 16 ,18 ,20 ,14 ,21 ,21 ,21 ,18 ,21 ,20 302m
3
19bolts wire representing trad
Right of BAC left of FK A high quality route, some sections may have be climbed before. Recommend, rap from the top, 30m, 60m, 30m, 60m, 60m, 60m.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11630m3Yes
 Slab Climbing
21832mYes
 Steepening cracks
32030m2Yes
 Corner to slab
41430m3Yes
 Scramble up
52130mYes
 Corner, small roof, layback
62130mYes
 Continue up corner
72130m7Yes
 Slab climbing, left of the big block, then back right.
81830mYes
 Up left facing corners
92130mYes
 Steep crack through upper headwall
102030m4Yes
 Slab climbing through upper headwall.
Dave Shotwell, Nick Cradock, Jonathan Gillan 2016
Finders Keepers 15 ,19 ,18 ,12 ,22 ,21 ,21 ,21 ,21 280m
3
25bolts wire representing trad
The "Lucky Strike" of trad climbing. Excellent rock & gear, sustained climbing. Topo attached to the climb description. Equipment: 2x 50m ropes, rack of wires down to #RP, Camalots, C3- #3(blue), double up on 0.5 & 0.75 + 12 draws inc extenders. All belays equipped with abseil rings.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11525m4Yes
 Start 50m right of BA Cnr. Bolt at start of rte. Initialed (FK)
21930m3Yes
31830m3Yes
41260mYes
 Pitches 4&5.Scrambling on good rock with DBB in between to big ledge & Trad belay.
52220m4Yes
 or climb optional corner (17)
62125m5Yes
72130m4Yes
82130m2Yes
92130mYes
Murray Ball, Nick Craddock & Dave Shotwell 2013
Lucky Strike 18 , 18 , 18 , 19 , 20 , 20 , 13 275m
0
55bolts wire representing trad
The original topo is attached, click on Lucky Strike. A quality route, well equipped with bolts, climbing the buttress on the right-hand side of the Mate. Seven pitches (280m), plus an optional further pitch to the ridge and a scramble to the summit. Take 2 x 50m ropes, a small rack of medium wires, cams to hand size and a dozen quickdraws. Abseil descent is best.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11855m9Yes
 Start 150 metres right of the Bowen Allan Corner. Access via a good ledge slightly further right. Bolts and natural pro. It’s possible to belay at the seventh bolt, with a cam, to reduce drag and increase visibility.
21845m11No
31830m9No
 Follow the bolts left, then back right.
41945m9Yes
 Bolts to a steep section, then some natural pro.
52025m8No
62025m9Yes
 Some natural pro.
71350mYes
 Climb 15 metres to where a dyke leads right to the top of the Mates Little Brother, or continue up to a belay station.
Murray Ball, Nick Cradock, David Shotwell, February 2010
Shot in the Dark 24
2.01
wire representing trad
6 pitches
Dave Shotwell, Nick Cradock, Murray Ball, 2012
Attribution: 
Craig Jefferies