Charismatic Wall (Pt 1655)

(3 routes)

Type: 
Mountain
Altitude: 
1655m
Aspect: 
North East
Walk time: 
45min
Access: 

Park below the Cleddau number 3 bridge and walk upstream on true left for about 50m to pick up flagged track which soon veers away across swampy forest. After about 250m reach the bottom of a rocky creek bed and follow this to base of wall and the neck of the prominent forested knob under the wall. Up steep bush with some hand-lines and then traverse left to base of access slabs.

Lat/Lon: 
-44.747282000000, 167.935510000000
NZMS260: 
D40 092 944
Topo50: 
CB08 991 326
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Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Uprising 24 560m
2.01
Supersedes and generally surpasses the first Charismatic route, while following a roughly similar line. 16–19 pitches. Double hangers are on belay only stations. Take about 15 draws, slings, full set of wires and cams up to #3 + a few extra wires and cams ≈ finger crack size. 2x 60m+ropes.
Jon Sedon, Paul Rogers, Matt Evrard, Camille Berthoux, Bruce Dowrick, 27 December 2018
Wild Dykes 21,20,19,18,20,15,17,22,20,18,20,23,21,21,17,16,16 451m
2.01
86bolts wire representing trad 2
Wild Dykes 650m , 24 pitches , 23 Rack 10-12 draws , single set nuts, single cams .2,2,3 doubles .3-1. Established ground up over 3.5 days of climbing and five days total on the wall. The route can be rapped with a single 60m rope. Approach via the first 7 pitches of Uprising. Once reaching the upper wall move right past uprising along the ledge to a fixed rope. At the base of the route there are singular bivy spots for 3 people. A 20L water bucket is in place 2m above the ring bolt of the fixed line on a small ledge.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
12130m30Yes
 

21 30m Start on easy slab to a high first bolt head then up via small overhanging nose on trad to bolt on slab. Reach high to jug rail stepping right then up crack to belay. 3 bolts and trad

22030m2Yes
 

20 30m Step left off belay to a good cam then up and right following jugs on the dyke. 2 bolts and right traverse to anchor.

31930m4Yes
 

19 30m Climb straight up past 4 bolts to a tricky move to a jug. After the forth bolt once standing on the face move left and follow an easy crack on the edge of the white dyke up to belay From there easy trad to anchor.

41825m1Yes
 

18 25m Climb directly above the belay aiming for a good jug on the face right of the arete ( #2 cam fits in here. ) follow finger crack right of jug up face to a bolt then easy run out up and left to anchor on ledge. Junction of carasmatic marketing movement

52030m5Yes
 

20 30m climb up and right of belay to bolt. At second bolt climb carefully past hollow flakes. 5 bolts plus gear

61530m1Yes
 

15 30m 1 bolt trad. Climb up and right following the clean slab to a bolt and friction move below the belay on a large ledge. Attention when rapping this pitch. Rope stretching 30m rap.

Bivy Ledge. 2 x 20l water buckets in position. Possible single bivy platforms for 2-3 people. 1 person at the belay and 1-2 people 15m below on a small ledge.

71718m2Yes
 

17 18m Move up and right past two bolts to a hidden corner. Continue up this corner on trad to a ledge 120cm long slings at base of corner to avoid rope drag.

82230m7Yes
 

22 30m up and right past two bolts and hard moves under a small roof. Then up past gear and 5 more bolts to belay

92030m8Yes
 

20 25m 8 bolts plus gear.
Climb up and left off belay. Past 3 bolts to crux. Then follow jugs through overlap.

101825m2Yes
 

18 25m head right on ramp for 10m the up left facing corner. Look for bolt out right. Hand traverse out right to easy groove and belay.

112025m4Yes
 

20 25m 4 bolts
Head left off belay down low. Up past two bolts on wild prow. Join the right tending ramp with gear for 10 m and then up left past bolt and up. To easy left traverse To belay. On thé ramp if you look up and right you see some of the bolts from the unfinished rap bolted line to the right of the route. Don’t head up and right to the far bolt at the end of the ramp. The pitch heads up and back left to finish in the wet corner directly above the belay of pitch 9.
The rap line goes down this corner. 25m rap straight down corner, then 20m rap to reach belay of pitch 9.

122327m4Yes
 

23 27m 4 bolts plus gear. (Single rack + 2x 0.75&1)
Climb up hollow flake( be careful) past two bolts. Hard mantle and face above. Climb middle clean crack up and left to jugs at the lip. Up 5m to stance belay.
Avoid chossy crack and blocks on the right.

132128m3Yes
 

21 28m
3 bolt plus single rack
Climb face above belay.then up right trending ramp for 5m. Head up. Place a # 1 then layback up the face past 2 bolts.

142128m5Yes
 

21 28m
5 bolts and gear. Single rack to #3
Climb out left past dyke. Up slab past 3 bolts. At the 4th bolt stand up and go right up seam/ dyke. Step low at last bolt then up on jugs.

151725m5Yes
 

17 27m 5 bolts and gear.
Leave belay to the right and up ramp. Drift slowly right on slabs and overlaps. Wild Dykes joins the unfinished rap bolted project at the last bolt of this pitch. The final two pitches are shared with this route.

161620m3Yes
 

16 20m 3 bolts and gear.
Up slab and Onto big flake.At top of flake straight up the face. Belay on the big ledge below the finger crack.

171620mYes
 

16 25m 0 bolts. Climb splitter fingers to the summit.

Llewellyn Murdoch & Daniel Joll Feb 2022
The Charismatic Movement Marketing Council 19,12,17,18,20,20,23,19,20,15,16,15 404m
1.02
wire representing trad
The face on the truncated spur on the true left, seen from the tunnel portal. Access to the base of the wall is difficult and thickly vegetated, but the quality of the rock on the upper walls is well worth the adventure. 14 pitches. Solid climbing around grade 20; some bolts and fixed gear. A possible bivvy ledge can be found at the top of the 4th pitch. The route was originally climbed over three weeks and involves a tricky approach from the Milford Road. Haul up on tussock trending right, traversing right 100m below the wall to a flat-looking area with a few trees. A difficult and exposed section of cliff trends up and right to the start of the technical climbing. Paul Rogers and Gareth Sharp abseiled down the line and climbed the top six or so pitches, placing belay anchors. Paul placed a bolt on lead through the crux section, swearing: 'those f*ckers have sand-bagged me...' Descent: nine or ten abseils. Pitches five and six would be difficult to retreat from without fixed lines but not impossible. Walking out to Homer via the ridge to Moir would be the best and safest option.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11950mYes
 

From start flake climb straight up and through a short steep corner, moving right to belay in bottom of white left-facing corner.

21230mYes
 

Follow white leaning corner to peg belay.

31730mYes
 

Straight up obvious weakness then traverse right across slabs to bolt belay.

41852mYes
 

Traverse right across slabby wall; follow shallow left-facing groove into a steep corner. Continue up a few steps for belay on Privet Hedge Ledge. The pitch was split due to rope drag.
Privet Hedge Ledge: Spacious seating for two with gear. Stunning views, sheltered from space junk, ample protection in flake above.

52035mYes
 

Traverse right to a shallow left-facing open-book corner with small roof. Deviousness necessary to protect startling blank traverse low down. Finish on bolt belay.

62025mYes
 

Up groove two metres right of belay then step left through steep ground to open corner.

72345mYes
 

Up groove above belay onto wall: good gear in crack. Traverse right past bolt (crux) to mantle ledge. Continue up wall on positive ledges to more good gear and fixed peg. A small tensioned pendulum will get you past the crux at 21 / A0.

81912mYes
 

Up arête to left of corner, then follow groove to a small slab and bolt belay.

92030mYes
 

Traverse left under roof thing to where it is breached by a weakness. Up then right to belay under overlap about seven metres above last belay.

101545mYes
 

A0, Follow dirty wet right-tending seam with a few aid moves. Belay as high on the easy ramp as possible.

111625mYes
 

Move out left from roof then up broken slabs to belay under gully things.

121525mYes
 

Climb right of roofs to grass, sun, places to sit and walk. Belay from rap bolt.

Gwilym Griffith-Jones, Daniel Meecham, February 1994
Attribution: 
Craig Jefferies
UUID: 
cdacea0d-f8c1-43e8-81c0-9702f5ebe436