Copper Point

(9 routes)

Local name for the truncated base of the North Ridge of Mitre Peak.
Up to 200m vertical walls, a massive capping overhang, and slabs on the west side. Logistics can be a little tricky but well repaid by some of the most spectacular climbing anywhere.

Type: 
Crag
Altitude: 
0m
Aspect: 
North
Access: 

Accessed via sea to the point, it is recommended that you travel to and from CP in the early morning if you are in personal craft as the sea breeze during the day makes travel difficult and sometimes dangerous.
All routes can be accessed directly from the water. a single ring-bolt is placed above the high tide mark so climbers can clip in and sort gear after disembarking.You can also Rap in to all routes and climb back out if you are at CP for multiple days without a vessel. Closest good camping is at Bridal Veil Falls beach, 1km west. Moraine Beach, 3km west, also offers camping plus more climbing. By sea-kayak it is about 2 hours from Deep Water Cove. Try Roscos Sea Kayaks for water taxi options (2020/2021 price $80PP return this should be organised by email beforehand) .

Copper Point juts out into the Sound and constricts the sea breeze so it can get blowy. On the plus side, this often keeps the sandflies away. Wind shells, long sleeves, long thin socks you can climb in and insect repellent are all a good idea.

The Track off the top is well cut and marked(pink) back to camp/beach. It will take about 1 hour to walk back to the beach.
There are two turn-offs to the Boaty Mc Boat face and Titanic along the way which are marked in Orange tape.
Routes 1-6 are on copper points main face.
Route 7 Titanic is a closed project
Routes 8 & 9 are on the Boaty Mc Boat Face. which is listed as a separate face see below.

Lat/Lon: 
-44.612700000000, 167.851300000000
NZMS260: 
D40 016 089
Topo50: 
CA08 915 472
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
1 Straight out of lock down 25
0
wire representing trad
Gear 12 x draws Single green c3 2 x sets nuts , 2 x cams red c3 – 3 and single #4 camalot. Maybe take triple .75 – 1 if linking pitches 3-4. ( not essential if your feeling solid at the grade ) The climb out of the water is very easy. Exit into the bush by climbing up past a bolt to a tree belay then walk out. You may want a rope on for the walk up to the track. It’s a bit exposed through the bush but we cut the track fairly well.
Karl Merry Schimanski , Daniel Joll May 2020
2 Taratahi 24
0
2
Climbs the large continuous black slab to the left of the main face of Copper Point. Can approach by boat or abseil. Well protected techy climbing on a fantastic sweep of rock. Approach from bottom: Route starts from a large square cut platform approx 5m above sea, with a short overhanging crack below. Approach from the left, step off boat up to a small ledge and single ring. Traverse 8m right and up to the platform, with 1 protection bolt. Approach from top: Take the descent track to the summit of the point. Head to rock slabs down and to the right of top of Sirens et al. 5m above lowest slab a track heads to right through scrub to top of climb. Anchors accessible to the right, a belay off tree may be needed to access. Rap the line, at least double 50m ropes required. Start at a large, square cut platform approx 5m above sea with a single ring Rack: Single set cams up to #2 camalot, small set offset nuts (red), 14 draws.
Llewellyn Murdoch Steven Fortune Dec 2020
3 Namu Namu Namu 23 A0
0
2
All belays double bolt with ring. Take two ropes. Scarmble up ledge from ocean. Belay at small tree. No ring on this route above landing.
Brooke Sandahl, James Spiers and Ed Nepia, March 2017
4 Ta Moko 25
3
wire representing trad
Mega classic up the beautiful orange rock. Start a single ring at the base of the big left facing corner (Sirens call) climb up via first two pitches of sirens call, then move left onto orange rock. exposed well protected climbing on great rock Single rack to #2. 14 draws
Bruce Dowrick, Richard Turner, James Spiers and Ed Nepia, March 2018
4.5 Closed Project 27
0
wire representing trad
"Fist Full Of Copper" Roof crack and groove directly abouve pitch 7 of Ta Moko Closed project currently
5 Sirens Call 24
0
wire representing trad 2
The big obvious corner that cuts a line down the main face. Good climbing on wild terrain. Rock improves in quality after the first pitch which is loose. The route starts at a bolted Belay 5m above the water. the route follows the corner and skirts the overhangs to the right. Take a single rack to #2. Red TCU or Black Totem useful. Offset nuts useful
Bruce Dowrick, Richard Turner and David Vass, March 2017
6 Ship Of Fools 19 170m
2.01
wire representing trad 2 1
19,18,19,18. 170m. Great climbing in a fabulous position. Has had rave reviews by repeat ascensionists, according to the first ascensionists. Many bolts + some trad. Bring a small supplementary single rack. 2 x 50m ropes required. If accessed from below, from the rock apron scramble to the solar panel, down and across to the exposed arete. Scramble up arete and find track through scrub. The hotel-sized rock is passed via fixed ropes on the right. The track continues to bolts marking the start of the route. If accessed from above, the top abseil rings can be found at the highest point of the wall. YELLOW line on topo photo
Bruce Dowrick, Bryan Moore, Tony Ward-Holmes. 13/12/14

Places

Type Title Link to edit content
Crag Boaty McBoat Face (2 routes)
UUID: 
8dcca3e5-6b0d-4cfb-ad38-046cc58c59e5

Comments

Added info and topo photo