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Fist Full Of Copper

Grade
26
Length
65m
6
Natural pro required
Quality
3
First ascent
Llewellyn Murdoch, Jon Sedon. Nov 2022
Located on
Topo ref
4.5

A Direct finish for Ta Moko.
Climb Ta Moko to the top of pitch 6. Then climb directly out the big roof and up the groove above. This route then joins the last pitch of Sirens Call.
Rack: Cams single rack- #0.2-1 and Offset wires.
Dark green line on topo


  • P1
  • 25
  • 25m
  • 3
  • Trad

From Ta Moko anchor clip the single ring bolt and traverse hard right on jug rail to the crack above the ledge. Straight up past 1 bolt to the roof and out the roof crack past another bolt. Mantle onto great belay ledge. Save a 0.5 for the end.


  • P2
  • 26
  • 40m
  • 6
  • Trad

Amazing groove pitch. Leave the belay left past bolt into tight stem. Stem past great wires and small cams to fun climbing up orange flakes. Rest out left before heading up the fused corner crack past 6 more bolts. Difficult laybacks, stemming and face climbing lead to a big ledge and belay. Leave the last bolt clipped to protect the rope from sharp edges.


Comments
UUID
 
52ca847c-02db-4be1-b99f-f7c9288664ca