Natural pro requiredA small but brilliant way to get to the "Ship of Fools". Also a nice short adventure in its own right.
Climbs the wall on the north side of the Copper Point ridge.
A lovely old style traditional route. Done in a nice style. Ground up, onsight, zero bolts (lets please keep it that way).
This 3 pitch route starts 30 meters right of the start of "Aquaman". It goes up a defined black corner that leads up to a series of roofs that look like an inverted staircase. Follow rightwards under the staircase roofs evenutally climbing through the right side of them via the obvious overhanging groove. Above the roofs climb the prominent pillar split by a distinct white and red finger crack.
Generally very well protected. The odd loose rock. Climb with gentle caution.
Access the base by boat. Land on to comfortable ledges where you can freely stand, sort your gear out and even flake your ropes. Belay out of line of the route to stay out of the way of any rocks displaced by the leader.
Gear: double rack of cams to BD #3, single #4, a set of nuts, 14 quickdraws, extendable slings. Suggest double ropes for drag management, redundancy, and to enable easier retreat should it become necessary.
- P1
- 15
- 25m
- Trad
Pitch 1: Climb the lovely crack in the wall just left of the black corner. This eventually leads into the corner proper. Make a gear belay under the first roof to minimize rope drag and communication difficulties on the subsequent pitch.
- P2
- 20
- 15m
- Trad
Pitch 2: Climb rightwards staying under the roofs until you can move up the overhanging crack / groove. Climb carefully over the lip (some potentially loose blocks) and belay 3 meters above the roof. Keep the belay rightside of the prominent crack above. Physical intimidating climbing on large holds. Place your protection carefully to minimize rope drag and to keep the rope from jamming in the crack over the roof.
- P3
- 20
- 40m
- Trad
Pitch 3. Climb airly up the obvious white and red crack that splits the hanging pillar. When the crack ends mantle up and right onto a small shelf. Then stretch out right to gain the offwidth. Follow this and the merciful face holds to the top of the wall. Above the rock move onto steep vegetated face that is climbed up to the ridge top. Belay off the bigger trees on the ridge top. From here you can either keep walking up to Ship of Fools or you can follow the ridge back down to end up on the seal platform.