The start of South-east ridge of Mt Tutoko.
In early summer it is possible to cross the ice-filled gully descending from the Madeline snow basin and traverse on snow and slabs to the slopes below the Pass. Later the gully becomes very broken and can be avoided by returning 300m down the track and following the snowfields on the Age Glacier to the Pass.
It is no longer possible to descend into the Donne Glacier on the northern side due to a huge overhang above the glacier.
Samuel Turner and Party, 1921.
Description of Donne Glacier side
Totally unfeasible. There is a potential route from the slopes above the lower glacier & lake. Climb up the north east ridge of Madeline trending up to meet the bottom of the North West ridge.