East Face (Summit Pyramid)

(10 routes)

This is the high triangular face above Talbot’s south-eastern snow-field, visible from Homer Hut.

Face (Alpine)

Walk up the Gertrude Valley to Black Lake, cross the outlet of the lake (usually no more than a large jump) then continue up to the toe of the East Ridge. Traverse across the snowfield until below the face. In late summer the snowfield becomes broken by numerous large crevasses making access to the Summit Pyramid difficult. Crampons may be required.
Winer Routes.
To access the Summit Pyramid either climb the Notch Route out of the valley or walk up the Gertrude Valley, traversing across exposed snow slopes below the east ridge to the base of the wall.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
1 JH Line
wire representing trad
The rock deteriorates towards the top. Finish on the South Ridge, just a short scramble to the summit.
Murray Jones, George Harris, Jan 1968.
2 Pharaoh 17
wire representing trad
Climb the first three pitches of Sphinx then left along a ledge. Climb a hand crack directly off the ledge (crux) to a left facing corner. Then at the base of a large gully move left into an offwidth.
Marty Beare, Lindsay Main, 1980.
3 Sphinx 19
wire representing trad
Initial slab pitches follow a series of short right facing corners to a ledge. Devious moves left then right to gain a stunning right facing corner halfway up the face. 40m of jamming.
Stu Allan, Bill Denz, 1978.
4 Homegrown 21
wire representing trad
Starts 30m left of the JC crack on the left side of a rib. The route tends right over some easy ledges before moving left onto the grey slab. Continue up, passing the roof above. This climb has a reputation for being both hard and committing with minimal protection. Yet is one of the more classic lines in the region.
Bill Denz, Calum Hudson, 1978.
5 JC Crack 15
wire representing trad
The prominent crack-line near the right side of the face: damp at times.
Murray Jones, Andy Campbell.
JC Crack IV WI4
Climb four pleasant pitches up the initial corner. Pitches five and six follow a crack line through the top wall and are airy but not severe. Climbed mainly on rock protection.
Geoff Gabites, Nigel Perry, July 1982.
Bowen Lockwood 15
wire representing trad
An unlikely line that breaks left from the J-C Crack up overlaps.
John Bowen, Keith Lockwood.
East Ridge Buttress
wire representing trad
5 Pitches: The route lies immediately right of the gully on the right-hand side of the Summit Pyramid. Quality rock with 6 aid moves.
Pete Moore, Nov 1974.
East Ridge Gully IV WI3
Follows an obvious gully between thr Summit Pyramid and the East Ridge.
Geoff Gabites, Kevin Rogan, 1973.
Tears of Papatuanuku IV 7
wire representing trad 1
On buttress to right of East Ridge Gully. Up an overhanging chimney to a hanging ice dagger. Very steep and pumpy to pull onto ice, not climbed clean on FA. Nice ice gully above to gain E ridge.
S Fortune, C Smith, K Parsons July 2016
Craig Jefferies