Mt Madeline | ClimbNZ

Type

Altitude

2536m

Part of

Madeline is a popular climb from Turners Biv and a much less committing proposition than Tutoko. The first mountaineering party to venture into the Tutoko valley was that of Malcolm Ross, Kenneth Ross, W J Hodgkin and Tom Fyfe, in 1895. They claimed to have made the first ascent of Tutoko, but actually climbed the low (west) peak of Madeline.

Lat/lon

-44.61423944,168.04588795, NZ Topo Map

Topo50

CA09 069 479

Accessed from

Tūtoko River

Glacier Creek

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Quality
14	14South West Face, II,2	II,2	0m	1.02
From the Madeline Snowfield climb the snow face and finish on the upper South Ridge. The ridge can be reached sooner, at about 2200m, for a more challenging climb. The South West Face was used in the first traverse of Madeline on 16 January 1955, by Bill Blee, Ron Dickie, Bill Gordon and Ralph Miller. They descended the top of the North East Ridge and traversed the snow shelf on the north side of the peak back to Turners Pass. Jim Strang, Bruce Clark and Paul Corwin made the first winter ascent (IV, WI2). P1 Alpine (Commitment) II Alpine (Technical) 2
ML	MLMad Line, IV,3	IV,3	0m	1.02
P1 Alpine (Commitment) IV Alpine (Mt Cook) 3 A good route with a fun rock climb leading directly to the west summit of Mt Madeline. Access the rock ridge by climbing nearly to Turner Pass (the col east of Pt 2119) either from the Madeline Snowfield or slabs above the Age Glacier.
13	13North West Buttress			0
Climb the rock ridge from Turners Pass.
	North East Ridge from Glacier Creek			0
From the Donne Lake outlet, take easy slopes up and then left of the bluffs to gain the broad snow shelf and then the upper part of the North East Ridge.
	North East Ridge, III,2,13	III,2,13	0m	0
The full North East Ridge is a long climb. Start from the Hollyford Valley and head up Madeline Creek to gain the ridge just beyond the bushline. The first ascent traversed the mountain to Turner’s Bivvy and the Tutoko Valley. P1 13 Alpine (Commitment) III Alpine (Technical) 2

Comments

Attribution

Craig Jefferies

UUID

16ea2ed8-690f-4897-b7b9-30b0efa19b6f