Mt Madeline

(6 routes)

Second-highest peak in the Darrans.

Type: 
Mountain
Altitude: 
2536m
Lat/Lon: 
-44.614239440000, 168.045887950000
NZMS260: 
D40 170 097
Topo50: 
CA09 069 479
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
13 North West Buttress
0
Climb the rock steps from Turner’s Pass.
Margaret Clark, Jim Clark, GD Cowie, Dec 1958.
14 West Face and South West Ridge
1.02
From the Madeline Snowfield climb the snow face to the South West Ridge. The North West Ridge was used in the first traverse of Madeline. The party descended the top of the East Ridge then traversed snow ledges to Turner’s Pass. Bill Blee, Ron Dickie, Bill Gordon, Ralph Millar, Jan 1955.
Alf Cowling, Samuel Turner, 1920.
North East Ridge
0
From the old moraine ledge above the lower glacier follow a ledge up to the broad snow-ridge and climb this to a rock step near the summit.
R Offer, G Mason, A Witten-Hannah, Dec 1953.
North East Ridge, Variation III 2 13
0
Start from the Hollyford Valley and head up Madeline Creek, to gain the ridge just beyond the bushline. A long climb. The first ascent traversed the mountain to Turner’s Bivvy and the Tutoko Valley.
Ian Brown, Tom Williams, February 2009
South West Ridge IV WI2
0
Climb to the Madeline snowfield then up the snow face to the South West Ridge.
Jim Strang, Bruce Clark, Paul Corwin, Aug 1976.
ML Mad Line IV 3
1.02
A good route with a fun rock climb leading directly to the satellite summit of Mt Madeline. Access the rock ridge via the Madeline Snowfield or via the col east of PT 2119.
Steve Skelton, Justin Venable, Simon Rutherford, Dec 29, 2016
Attribution: 
Craig Jefferies