Statue Wall

(10 routes)

This 300 metre high wall runs between Te Wera and Karetai. Lindsays Ledges angle up the central part of the wall to Karetai Col.
To descend, traverse to the base of the South Ridge of Te Wera, or to Karetai Col and down Lindsays Ledges, or to the base of the step on the North Ridge of Karetai where ledges lead across the face towards the West Ridge and Turners Eyrie.

Type: 
Face (Alpine)
Aspect: 
North West
Lat/Lon: 
-44.669263280000, 168.045673370000
NZMS260: 
D40 174 036
Topo50: 
CB09 073 418
@@@@@@
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
1 Kilroy Wuz Ere II 21 250m
1.02
wire representing trad
Climb the right side of the second-from-left pinnacle, up clean corner (pitch 3, crux) and then the red wall above, crossing the diagonal fissures. Five pitches in total.
Rich Thomson, Rich Turner, Dave Vass, January 2015
2 Butt Cheek Booma Gutsa II 16,21,18,18,16 260m
1.02
wire representing trad
Climbs the middle of three corner crack lines between Kilroy and the large buttress.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
116II60mYes
 

Into and through the white S-bend slab.

22145mYes
 

A palm-off gets you onto the steep wall. Move up and left to belay below and left of the corner system.

31850mYes
 

The diagonal corner crack with a couple of spectacular moves through the overhang.

41845mYes
 

Varied crack, corner and face climbing. Once above the corner crack, move left onto the buttress.

51660mYes
 

Either continue up the buttress or move left into the adjacent corner system.

Derek Cheng, Rich Thomson, Rich Turner, February 2022
3 Brothers in Farms II 22 325m
3
wire representing trad
Follow a corner system and overlaps direct to where two major diagonals cross at mid height on the face left of the big corner-roof system. Continue directly up, through some steep terrain but on massive holds.
James Spiers, Rich Turner, February 2015
4 21+ II 21,21,21,21,, 300m
2.01
wire representing trad
Begin at the base of the massive corner and roof system, left of Lindsay's Ledges. Descent: ridge to Karetai Col. At the dubious-looking drop-off point, either solo down slabs on the Te Puoho side, or go to the very end of this buttress and down to a 40m rap.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
121II60mYes
 

Up the main vegetated corner, deceptively steeply, to possible break R at 40m. Swing R and up rib to belay.

22140mYes
 

Straight up steep wall above to easier ground and big diagonal corner up left to belay.

32145mYes
 

Up and left steeply to black streak (obvious from ground). Up this to blocky belay.

42145mYes
 

Up deviantly to roof (gear in roof to R). Left to pull through roof on same black streak. Steeply up till angle eases, trending left to L-R grassy diagonal. Hanging belay in diagonal or up corner on left and belay left of top.

560mYes
 

Up the orange wall of dinner plates, to grey slab and up to belay.

650mYes
 

Diagonal R to middle of steep slab, up this to top for some fun (pitch could be avoided by easier scramble up ridge above belay).

Rich Thomson, Rich Turner, 10 February 2016
Ara whero 18,21,20,21,19,21 300m
3
wire representing trad 3
Climb follows line of red rock 20m left of “parallel lines”. Starting at the toe of the buttress. Single rack plus doubles in the finger sizes. Double ropes useful
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11860mYes
 

P1: up and left across slab to red stripe. Up this then slightly right at compact face to find good gear. Then back left passing Grey dyke and bongo flakes to good belay standing on flakes.

22160mYes
 

P2: directly above belay and then through bulge to the right. Good gear then straight up and slightly left following the jugs and great gear. Trend right into red corner and then onto ledge for good belay.

32060mYes
 

P3: climb fun easy red rock tending right to red bulge. Arrange gear and launch up the overhang on great holds. Belay on spike.

42120mYes
 

P4: short pitch up second red bulge. Good wires protect the crux. Great holds the whole way.

51950mNo
 

P5: step left from belay and climb short red corner directly. After this angle eases but good quality rock for the rest of the pitch. Spike belay on big ledge.

62150mYes
 

P6: climb the corner crack and roof between the two pillars.
Climb up crack trending right. Then straight up to left facing corner. Plug gear at the top of the corner and head way left on wild jug traverse. Mantle up and climb cracks to the ridge line.
Exposed and awesome. Haul the bag if you can on this pitch.

Bruce Dowrick & Llewellyn Murdoch Jan 2022
5 Katabatic Gravity Well II 23 300m
3
wire representing trad
Another super route on this super wall.
Richard Turner, James Spiers, February 2015
6 Parallel Lines II 21,18,16,21,16,21 300m
2.01
wire representing trad
A six-pitch climb. Start up the wall left of the big roofs and that finishes on the small peaklet just above Karetai Col.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
121II50mYes
 

Start up the middle of the wall left of the big arching roofs. Belay just left of the smaller roof system.

21850mYes
 

Climb the black streak into a slight groove system and up to the ledge.

31650mYes
 

Break through the overhangs right of the belay on huge holds and continue up the ramp.

42150mYes
 

The stellar crack system just left of the big green roof.

51650mYes
 

Up easier terrain.

62150mYes
 

Save some skin for the fingery climbing on the final orange wall.

Bruce Dowrick, Rich Thomson, Rich Turner, February 2010
7 Statue Bro II 19 300m
3
wire representing trad
Six pitches. Follow the reddest rock, just right of the overhangs, up to the small notch in the ridge.
Dave Vass, Rich Turner, Rich Thomson, March 2006
8 The Brown Spider II 19 300m
0
wire representing trad
Begin about 80m to the right of Statue Bro? and link a set of distinct features, one of which is the system of cracks that gives the route its name. Finish at the next notch right of the Statue Bro? finish. Eight pitches, with adequate protection on excellent rock.
John McCallum, Alan Thomas, Mark Watson, February 2012
5 Good Craic 16,14,19,17,7,17 350m
0
wire representing trad
On the right side of the Statue Wall. Finishes at steep offwidth to left of huge boulders on summit ridge
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11640mYes
 

Start on large ledge left of steep grey wall, and right of red rib. Up slabs, move left around small overhang to belay on grassy ledge

21460mYes
 

Climb chimney/gully on left for 10m, then climb rightwards up low angle red rib to large ledge below next steep wall.

31930mYes
 

Superb steep splitter finger crack

41760mYes
 

Angle up wall to thin crack, then easy groove.

57100mNo
 

Walk up easy scree ledge. Aim for groove leading to offwidth splitting headwall above. Scramble 10m up groove to belay at ledge

61760mYes
 

Up groove and steeper offwidth to finish at ridgetop. Easy scramble to summit and descent down west ridge to Eryie

Steven Fortune and Rachel Knott Jan 2022
Attribution: 
The Darran Mountains (NZAC: 2006) by Craig Jefferies; Rich Thomson; Mark Watson; Rich Turner
UUID: 
5190b85d-8b05-4165-9a8c-ee55579aa6de