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Ara whero

Grade
21
Length
300m
0
Natural pro required
Quality
3
First ascent
Bruce Dowrick, Llewellyn Murdoch, January 2022
Located on

Follows a line of red rock 20m left of “Parallel Lines”. Starting at the toe of the buttress. Single rack plus doubles in the finger sizes. Double ropes useful.


  • P1
  • 18
  • 60m
  • Trad

Up and left across slab to red stripe. Up this then slightly right at compact face to find good gear. Then back left passing Grey dyke and bongo flakes to good belay standing on flakes.


  • P2
  • 21
  • 60m
  • Trad

Directly above belay and then through bulge to the right. Good gear then straight up and slightly left following the jugs and great gear. Trend right into red corner and then onto ledge for good belay.


  • P3
  • 20
  • 60m
  • Trad

Climb fun easy red rock tending right to red bulge. Arrange gear and launch up the overhang on great holds. Belay on spike.


  • P4
  • 21
  • 20m
  • Trad

A short pitch up second red bulge. Good wires protect the crux. Great holds the whole way.


  • P5
  • 19
  • 50m

Step left from belay and climb short red corner directly. After this angle eases but good quality rock for the rest of the pitch. Spike belay on big ledge.


  • P6
  • 21
  • 50m
  • Trad

Climb the corner crack and roof between the two pillars. Climb up crack trending right. Then straight up to left facing corner. Plug gear at the top of the corner and head way left on wild jug traverse. Mantle up and climb cracks to the ridge line. Exposed and awesome. Haul the bag if you can on this pitch.


Comments
llewellynmurdoch

Hey Rich.
From looking at the Katabatic topo looks like we were to the left again.
We were left of the big diagonal roof, first pitch was only 18 max and then we climbed a series of overhangs on red rock. Last pitch climbs a steep crack and roof to the summit, Which is 20m left of the “red rib” described in the katabatic topo.

Sun, 20/03/2022 - 08:32 Permalink
Richard Thomson
administrator content_editor

In reply to by llewellynmurdoch

Cool. So much space on that wall!

Wed, 13/04/2022 - 22:45 Permalink
Richard Thomson
administrator content_editor

I think this is more or less the same line as Katabatic?
Katabatic was previously wrongly shown here & in the Homer new routes book as being right of Parallel Lines but it is apparently the line of red rock to the left of Parallel.

Sun, 27/02/2022 - 17:06 Permalink
UUID
 
c2ddb632-c44c-4946-88a6-3b04475a607d