Natural pro required9P | 250m | 24 | 80% bolted
Tunnel Vision opens the Portal Wall with nine pitches rising in difficulty and exposure – not to mention a 30 min approach, dips in the Infinity Pools and link-ups with the Moir classics.
Equipped by: Owyn Aitken, Jack Evans, David Macdonald, Ben Mitchell, Reon Morrison (+ others!)
Established with support from the NZAC Bolting Fund
Hazards:
The Infinity Pools and Upper Basin are exposed to glide avalanches, especially in the early season. The route itself is relatively protected.
Aspect:
NW facing with sun from 10:30-19:00. After a good rain, allow half a day for the rock to dry.
Gear:
- 1x 60m rope
- 12 QDs including 4 extenders
- Cams 0.2 – 2 (BD sizing)
- Wires small – medium (offsets handy)
- Togs & towel
Parking:
From the Milford side of the tunnel, drive 50m further and park at the first bay on the true right. Stow anything the kea militia might find interesting.
Access:
Access is currently possible via the gated track on the side of the tunnel entrance. Be sure to chat to the friendly Milford crew in the yellow vehicle to stay informed of any changes.
Approach:
30 minutes of danger walking and scrambling.
Edge past the tunnel entrance and sidle to the Infinity Pool. Weave up the true right of the cascade and cross at the Upper Infinity Pool. Climb the slabby rib (~15m), then follow cairns up a rightwards line.
Keep an eye out for a leftwards scramble onto David’s Massive Gorgeous Belay Ledge. The final section (~30m) is roughly grade 8 – abseil on descent.
Descent:
1x 60m rope: nine abseils down the climbing line. Most abseils nudge 30m – knot your ends.
2x 60m ropes: five abseils, linking pitches 8+7, 6+5, 4+3 and 2+1.
P1 → P4 make an ideal apprenticeship to multi-pitching in the Darrans
- P1
- 16
- 30m
- 6
- Trad
New (B)endeavours
Saunter up the slab and over a thoughtful bulge.
Trad: 0.5 + 0.75 cams
- P2
- 17
- 30m
- 6
- Trad
Jack Attack
Trend left up the slab to the white roof, then tiptoe across the hanging slab.
Trad: full rack
- P3
- 19
- 32m
- 7
- Trad
The Wolverine
Angle left past the cam placement and latch onto the wolverine scar dyke. Claw to the lip and pad up the slab.
Trad: 0.4 cam
- P4
- 18
- 30m
- 8
- Trad
Mantlemania
A shallow groove leads to slanting bulges and engaging mantles. Belay at the double-hanger ledge, or continue 5m to the abseil chains (recommended for next pitch).
Trad: 0.3-0.5 cams
- P5
- 22
- 30m
- 8
- Trad
Taste of Babylon
Ramble to the white birthmark to clip the camo-bolt (cam above), then squeeze onto the face on desperate underclings. Finish on easy ground.
Trad: 0.75 + 1 cam
- P6
- 19
- 30m
- 6
- Trad
Slice of Heaven
Follow the glorious dyke, then up the face.
Trad: full rack
- P7
- 22
- 25m
- 7
- Trad
Reon's Runout (Retro-Bolted)
Pull up the prominent flake to gain the slab. Grab your belayer's attention, then dispatch the abrupt face with a leftwards mantle. Cut right to the anchor.
Trad: wires
- P8
- 24
- 30m
- 10
- Trad
The Great Roof
Up the techy slab, whoompf through the roof, then devious moves up and rightwards. Break left to a lofty belay.
Trad: full rack
- P9
- 24
- 30m
- 8
- Trad
The Headwall
Set forth on the sustained headwall, enjoying the gathering air beneath your feet. Commit to a wild move at the last bolt, reserving a 0.4 cam for the closing mantle.
Trad: full rack
- P10
- 4
- 15m
- 1
Top out: a short scramble to a belay on friendlier ground. 1 min to fresh water, 5 mins to a grassy knoll with panoramic views, 15 mins further to Moir’s Sit Start.
