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Tunnel Vision

Grade
24
Length
282m
10
Natural pro required
Quality
2.01
First ascent
FFA Owyn, David and Ben (23 March 2026)
Located on

9P | 250m | 24 | 80% bolted
Tunnel Vision opens the Portal Wall with nine pitches rising in difficulty and exposure – not to mention a 30 min approach, dips in the Infinity Pools and link-ups with the Moir classics.

Equipped by: Owyn Aitken, Jack Evans, David Macdonald, Ben Mitchell, Reon Morrison (+ others!)

Established with support from the NZAC Bolting Fund

Hazards:
The Infinity Pools and Upper Basin are exposed to glide avalanches, especially in the early season. The route itself is relatively protected.

Aspect:
NW facing with sun from 10:30-19:00. After a good rain, allow half a day for the rock to dry.

Gear:

  • 1x 60m rope
  • 12 QDs including 4 extenders
  • Cams 0.2 – 2 (BD sizing)
  • Wires small – medium (offsets handy)
  • Togs & towel

Parking:
From the Milford side of the tunnel, drive 50m further and park at the first bay on the true right. Stow anything the kea militia might find interesting.

Access:
The chatty tunnel attendants sometimes hang about in a yellow Milford car. They assure us the "Do Not Enter" signs are purely a liability measure - but do say hello anyway.

Approach:
30 minutes of danger walking and scrambling. This would be a good place to have a tumble.

Edge past the tunnel entrance and sidle to the Infinity Pool. Weave up the true right of the cascade and cross at the Upper Infinity Pool. Climb the slabby rib (~15m), then follow cairns up a rightwards line.

Keep an eye out for a leftwards scramble onto David’s Massive Gorgeous Belay Ledge. The final section (~30m) is roughly grade 8 – abseil on descent.

Descent:
1x 60m rope: nine abseils down the climbing line. Most abseils nudge 30m – knot your ends.
2x 60m ropes: five abseils, linking pitches 8+7, 6+5, 4+3 and 2+1.

P1 → P4 make an ideal apprenticeship to multi-pitching in the Darrans


  • P1
  • 16
  • 30m
  • 6
  • Trad

New Bendeavours
Saunter up the slab and over a thoughtful bulge.
Trad: 0.5 + 0.75 cams


  • P2
  • 17
  • 30m
  • 6
  • Trad

Jack Attack
Trend left up the slab to the white roof, then tiptoe across the hanging slab.
Trad: full rack


  • P3
  • 19
  • 32m
  • 7
  • Trad

The Wolverine
Angle left past the cam placement and latch onto the wolverine scar dyke. Claw to the lip and pad up the slab.
Trad: 0.4 cam


  • P4
  • 18
  • 30m
  • 8
  • Trad

Mantlemania
A shallow groove leads to slanting bulges and engaging mantles. Belay at the double-hanger ledge, or continue 5m to the abseil chains (recommended for next pitch).
Trad: 0.3-0.5 cams


  • P5
  • 22
  • 30m
  • 8
  • Trad

Taste of Babylon
Ramble to the white birthmark to clip the camo-bolt (cam above), then squeeze onto the face on desperate underclings. Finish on easy ground.
Trad: 0.75 + 1 cam


  • P6
  • 19
  • 30m
  • 6
  • Trad

Slice of Heaven
Follow the glorious dyke, then up the face.
Trad: full rack


  • P7
  • 22
  • 25m
  • 7
  • Trad

Reon's Runout (Retro-Bolted)
Pull up the prominent flake to gain the slab. Grab your belayer's attention, then dispatch the abrupt face with a leftwards mantle. Cut right to the anchor.
Trad: wires


  • P8
  • 24
  • 30m
  • 10
  • Trad

The Great Roof
Up the techy slab, whoompf through the roof, then devious moves up and rightwards. Break left to a lofty belay.
Trad: full rack


  • P9
  • 24
  • 30m
  • 8
  • Trad

The Headwall
Set forth on the sustained headwall, enjoying the gathering air beneath your feet. Commit to a wild move at the last bolt, reserving a 0.4 cam for the closing mantle.
Trad: full rack


  • P10
  • 4
  • 15m
  • 1

Top out: a short scramble to a belay on friendlier ground. 1 min to fresh water, 5 mins to a grassy knoll with panoramic views, 15 mins further to Moir’s Sit Start.


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UUID
 
0ad9745d-422a-49aa-97b8-708e9539fe5b