Portal Wall

3P | 95m | 17

The bridge between Tunnel Vision and Moir, unlocking endless link-ups for those who like to climb more than they like to walk.

Three pitches up the shoulder of a vegetated buttress, materialising five minutes below Mate's Little Bro. We chose this line as it sits further from the firing line than the more attractive slabs on either side.

Take care with loose rock - the Infinity Pools sit directly below.

Approach (20 mins):
After climbing Tunnel Vision, scramble to the grassy knoll and meander through the upper basin. Traverse left to the white polished slabs, then drop down the adjacent gully/stream to the large ledge system that runs across the face below Moir's Mate. The route starts 10 meters along this ledge.

Descent:
Three 30m abseils down the climbing line, followed by a 5m scramble to the ledge system.

9P | 250m | 24 | 80% bolted
Tunnel Vision opens the Portal Wall with nine pitches rising in difficulty and exposure – not to mention a 30 min approach, dips in the Infinity Pools and link-ups with the Moir classics.

Equipped by: Owyn Aitken, Jack Evans, David Macdonald, Ben Mitchell, Reon Morrison (+ others!)

Established with support from the NZAC Bolting Fund

Hazards:
The Infinity Pools and Upper Basin are exposed to glide avalanches, especially in the early season. The route itself is relatively protected.

Aspect:
NW facing with sun from 10:30-19:00. After a good rain, allow half a day for the rock to dry.

Gear:

• 1x 60m rope
• 12 QDs including 4 extenders
• Cams 0.2 – 2 (BD sizing)
• Wires small – medium (offsets handy)
• Togs & towel

Parking:
From the Milford side of the tunnel, drive 50m further and park at the first bay on the true right. Stow anything the kea militia might find interesting.

Access:
The chatty tunnel attendants sometimes hang about in a yellow Milford car. They assure us the "Do Not Enter" signs are purely a liability measure - but do say hello anyway.

Approach:
30 minutes of danger walking and scrambling. This would be a good place to have a tumble.

Edge past the tunnel entrance and sidle to the Infinity Pool. Weave up the true right of the cascade and cross at the Upper Infinity Pool. Climb the slabby rib (~15m), then follow cairns up a rightwards line.

Keep an eye out for a leftwards scramble onto David’s Massive Gorgeous Belay Ledge. The final section (~30m) is roughly grade 8 – abseil on descent.

Descent:
1x 60m rope: nine abseils down the climbing line. Most abseils nudge 30m – knot your ends.
2x 60m ropes: five abseils, linking pitches 8+7, 6+5, 4+3 and 2+1.

P1 → P4 make an ideal apprenticeship to multi-pitching in the Darrans