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Mystic Sister

Grade
24
Length
150m
11
Natural pro required
Quality
2.01
First ascent
Frederike Andree, Jochen Lenfert, March 2021

The route starts at a single ring bolt anchor below a black corner 10 metres right of New Jersey Drifter. The route heads straight up the face, taking in the big right-facing corner in the centre of the wall. All belays are double ring bolts. Take a standard rack and 15 quickdraws, but you might like to add a #4 cam. Descend by abseiling the route, or walking off the top.


  • P1
  • 24
  • 35m
  • 10
  • Trad

Reach a shallow corner via an undercling and some hard pulls. Turn the lip before it curves right, climb straight up onto the face above. Then follow the seam diagonally up and left to the anchor.


  • P2
  • 22
  • 40m
  • 10
  • Trad

Straight up from the anchor tending right a bit onto a tricky face with flakes. This leads to the splitter crack which forms the bottom of the right-facing corner. Layback the flake to finish on the easy face right of the corner. Step left to belay on a ledge.


  • P3
  • 23
  • 40m
  • 11
  • Trad

Step left from the belay onto the face. Balancy moves lead onto a slab below the crack of a left-facing corner. Aim for the jug out right to get to a crack and face above. Move slightly left to the bottom of a left-facing offwidth. Negotiate the big boulders at the top of the offwidth to get to the next anchor.


  • P4
  • 19
  • 35m
  • 9
  • Trad

Take the flake left to climb the face into the left-facing corner. Pull over the roof on good holds, then climb a slab and a seam to a DBB at the top of the face.


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