The large recessed slab above Phil's Bivvy holds two long sustained slab routes. Both remain relatively dry, following lines on either side of the water-streak.
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 1Vass Judge, 22 | 22 | 290m | 11 |
|||
|
Varied, glory seeking face climbing, with a sneaky traverse through the roof. 2x 60m ropes and at least 11QD required, some extenders recommended. Access: Scramble on to access slabs via grassy ledges from climber's left, then straight up to base via line of least resistance Descent: 6x 60m rappels, skipping the belay of infinite faff (top of p6). Take caution on rope placement for first abseil to make pulling easier. 60m rap from top of P1 can skip the spiciest part of access scramble.
Climb the obvious weakness
Surmount Tower (14ish) to find first bolt.
Caution on the transient damp patch on the left
Climb the edge of glory flake!
Continue to climb flake of increasing glory
Traverse hanging slab into corner belay of infinite faff
Sneakily traverse more hanging slab, then up through cruxy rooflets into giant undercling flake. Head right after ledge on top slab, and back left after the last bolt to top out anchor and charcuterie ledge. |
|||||||
| 2 | 2Tootsies, 22 | 22 | 305m |  |
|||
|
Excellent (!!!) slab and face climbing that your tootsies will remember (for at least 40 years). 2x 60m ropes and at least 10QD required + 2x extenders recommended. Best climbed earlier in the day for minimal dampness on the roof traverse pitch (snowmelt from above). Access: Scramble in across ledges from the looker's left, cross the water course, and start climbing up the clean corner. Descent: 5x 60m rappels to the top of P4, then 60m down to a rap anchor (off-route on the climbers left). From there another 60m will get you to the access ledge.
Up corner to step right around rooflet, then up vague prow to the anchor.
Follow easy ground left, then mantle the mantley mantle, then back right along ledge to belay.
"you savage" - up small edges, then traverse right into anchor.
"Play" - left off belay, fun climbing through scoops and edges.
"Murray's Memory" - straight up to the jolly giant green holds. Alternative (20, original line) left off belay, up until tricky step down and right on small edges to traverse into belay
"the Judge-ment" - techy face climbing with final underclings to salvation jug.
"the Righteous Runout" - thin face moves. fear optional.
Trend left to touch the waterfall. Top of the slab onwards traverses hard right and is bolted closely to aid if the waterfall is very watery.
Onwards to top out on tootsie rest ledge with a beautiful view. |
|||||||