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Vass Judge

Grade
22
Length
290m
11
Quality
3
First ascent
P1-P5 Dave Vass, Murray Judge, Feb 1988.
P6 & P7 Stu Duncan, Sooji Clarkson, Feb 2025
Topo ref
1

Varied, glory seeking face climbing, with a sneaky traverse through the roof. 2x 60m ropes and at least 11QD required, some extenders recommended.

Access: Scramble on to access slabs via grassy ledges from climber's left, then straight up to base via line of least resistance

Descent: 6x 60m rappels, skipping the belay of infinite faff (top of p6). Take caution on rope placement for first abseil to make pulling easier. 60m rap from top of P1 can skip the spiciest part of access scramble.


  • P1
  • 16
  • 35m
  • 5

Climb the obvious weakness


  • P2
  • 18
  • 35m
  • 5

Surmount Tower (14ish) to find first bolt.


  • P3
  • 19
  • 40m
  • 9

Caution on the transient damp patch on the left


  • P4
  • 22
  • 50m
  • 9

Climb the edge of glory flake!


  • P5
  • 22
  • 50m
  • 8

Continue to climb flake of increasing glory


  • P6
  • 20
  • 30m
  • 7

Traverse hanging slab into corner belay of infinite faff


  • P7
  • 22
  • 50m
  • 11

Sneakily traverse more hanging slab, then up through cruxy rooflets into giant undercling flake. Head right after ledge on top slab, and back left after the last bolt to top out anchor and charcuterie ledge.


Comments
UUID
 
91b335c5-abfb-4397-b6b1-c6c88d9f5424